LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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GRORNITTING 



THE 



NEW ART 



WORSTED WORK 




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107-113 GRAIMID STREET. 



MATERIALS FOR 

SUPERIOR CROCHET AND 
MACRAME WORK 

THE success of crochet and macrame work depends largely upon the careful 
choice of superior materials which are suitable for the work, giving it the 
clean and finished appearance which is often missing from work that, being 
made from poor material, has an amateurish appearance. We recommend 
especially, for cotton crochet work: — 

Bucilla Crochet 

Bear Macrame 



Bucilla Crochet 

A smooth working, highly mercerized cotton suitable for making laces, 
center pieces, belts, purses, bed spreads, etc. White and ecru are made in 
fifteen sizes and the fifteen beautiful colors are made in four or more sizes. This 
is an American product and superior to all the imported articles that have 
been offered heretofore. 

Bear Macrame 

Is a heavier, mercerized, hard twisted cord suitable for all kinds of Mac- 
rame work as well as for crocheting. From it are made bags, portieres, table 
covers, lamp shades, etc. It is much called for by the exclusive trade. 



Glossilla Crochet 

Resembles the finest silk crochet thread, is more lustrous and retains its 
luster under all circumstances. It is used for neckties, belts, bags, etc. ; is put 
up in convenient cartons from which the thread can be drawn while working, the 
remainder being entirely protected by the transparent shell. Each carton con- 
tains enough material for one necktie or belt. 

This carton has been patented. 



Klondyke Thread 

Is a soft metal thread for crocheting. It comes in a rich, bright gold color, 
also in aluminum, antique gold and antique silver. It is superior to all metal 
threads on the market ; does not tarnish easily and is most satisfactory for work- 
ing purposes. 



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Cta-lCnttttng 



The New Art of Worsted Work 



ALSO 



Cror^frt Sattto JJfork 



PRESENTING A COLLECTION 

OF ORIGINAL AND ATTRACTIVE DESIGNS WITH 

FULL WORKING DIRECTIONS 



PRICE, 25 CENTS 



PUBLISHED BY 

BERNHARD ULMANN & CO. 

107 TO 113 GRAND STREET, NEW YORK CITY 



Copyright 1914, 

BY 

Bernhard Ulmann & Co. 



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FEB 12 19(4 

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FOREWORD 



~\ he new art of Cro-Knitting is, as its name 




^ 



implies, a combination of crocheting and 
knitting, the effects produced being as 
^.^1^ beautiful as they are novel. The variety 
of unusual stitches is almost without 
limit and leads the worker, who desires something 
out of the beaten path, into new fields that tempt 
her to go on and on seeking and finding unknown 
beauties at each step. Once mastered, Cro-Knit- 
ting may be used for numerous purposes. 

In presenting this new art to the public, we 
feel that it will be welcomed by the many friends 
of the BEAR BRAND MANUAL OF HANDI- 
WORK. 

We have included, in addition to Cro- 
Knitting, a number of designs for the new 
Crocheted Lattice Work that need only to be seen 
to be appreciated. 

We wish, however, to advise the worker that 
in carrying out the various directions given, she 
uses exactly the materials designated. The 
directions were tested with the yarns and needles 
named and only by their use can the proper re- 
sults be obtained. Do not substitute another yarn 
and then wonder why your work is not satisfactory. 
Use the yarn specified — 

BEAR BRAND 




Young Girl's Norfolk 

{For description see page 7) 



THE NEW ART 



CRO-KNITTING 



''To knit from a crochet hook and crochet from 
a knitting pin" is the best description of Cro- 
Knitting. The rows of crocheting and knitting 
are worked alternately or as the various patterns 
demand. The work requires a pair of knitting 
pins (or needles, as the}- are sometimes called) 
and a crochet hook of the same length and size 
as the pins. The hook should be of an even thick- 
ness down its entire length, with a knob at the 
end, as the stitches are allowed to accumulate on 
it as in afghan stitch. 

The work is always commenced on a knitting 
pin, the stitches being cast on in the usual man- 
ner (see Bear Brand Manual of Handiwork), 
followed by one or more rows of plain knitting. 

KNITTED ROWS: the wool is to be held in 
the usual manner. The first stitch is to be 
slipped or knitted as directed, but where a row of 
knitting commences with a different wool, the 
first stitch is always knitted, to keep the stripe 
distinct. 

CROCHETED ROWS: when working these 
from the knitting pin, the hook is inserted 
through the stitch on the pin, as though it were 
a second knitting pin (from left to right). When 
working into the back of a stitch, the hook is 
inserted in reverse manner (from right to left). 
When working the crocheted rows the wool is 
passed over the fingers of the left hand. When 
two knitting stitches are taken together the hook 
is passed through the stitch nearer the left hand 
(as in knitting) before entering the stitch next to 
the point of the pin. When the back threads of 
two stitches are taken together, this is reversed 
and the crochet hook enters first the stitch at the 
point of the pin. As the crocheted rows are 
worked from the stitches on the knitting pin, it 
is not possible to "skip one" as in ordinary cro- 
cheting, as the stitch would drop, but it is an 
easy matter to put one stitch into two knitting 
stitches taken together, thus producing an ex- 
tremely pretty effect. 

In the instructions, when the phrase occurs "i 
double through two stitches, I double through the 
back of the same two stitches," the repetition 
means that the stitches are to be held on the 



knitting pin until the second double has been 
made; then slip stitches from pin. 

When knitting from the crochet hook the point 
of the hook must be kept pointing downward to 
avoid catching the wool. 

STITCHES. The knitting stitches are merely 
the usual plain and purl. The basic crochet 
stitches are single, double and treble crochet and 
the various cluster stitches, some of which are 
illustrated. 




SINGLE CROCHET STITCH. 

Cast on any number of stitches and knit I row. 
* With the crochet hook draw the wool through 
the stitch on the knitting pin; wool over hook 
and through the loop just drawn through, slip 
stitch from the pin and repeat from * all across. 
After row has been finished, there should be as 
many stitches on hook as there were on pin. 



CRO-KNITTING 




wool over and through two loops, wool over and 
through one loop, slip stitch from pin and repeat 
from * all across. 



DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH. 

Cast on any number of stitches and knit one 
row. Wool over hook, draw the wool through 
first stitch on pin: wool over and through the two 
loops on hook. Slip stitch from knitting pin. 
* Wool over hook, draw wool through next stitch 
on pin, wool over and through two loops, slip 
stitch from pin and repeat from * all across. 




TREBLE CROCHET STITCH. 

Cast on any number of stitches and knit one 
row. Insert hook in first stitch and draw wool 
through, ch. 2 and slip stitch from pin. * Wool 
over hook, draw wool through next stitch on pin, 




AUTOMOBILE STITCH. 

Cast on an even number of stitches and knit 4 
rows. 

First pattern row: with crochet hook pull a loop 
through first stitch, wool over and pick up an- 
other loop in same stitch, slip stitch from pin, 
wool over and pick up a loop in next stitch, wool 
over and through all 5 loops on hook, ch. 1, thus 
forming one cluster, slip stitch from pin, * wool 
over and pick up a loop in next stitch, slip off pin, 
wool over and pick up a loop in next stitch, wool 
over and through all 5 loops on hook, ch. 1, slip 
stitch from pin and repeat from * all across. 

Second pattern row: pick up a loop in the back 
thread of second and all remaining stitches, re- 
taining loops on hook (as in afghan stitch). The 
loop on hook will count as first stitch. 



Knit 2 rows, 
pattern. 



These four rows constitute one 



THE NEW ART 



CLUSTER STITCH. 

Cast on an even number of stitches and knit 
one row. 

Second row: insert crochet hook in first stitch, 
draw wool through, ch. I, slip stitch from pin. 






* Make i treble crochet through the next two 
stitches together, i double crochet through the 
back of the same two stitches, slip stitches from 
pin and repeat from * all across, ending by work- 
ing final stitch as first was made. 

Knit 3 rows. Repeat these last four rows for 
the length desired. 

LATTICE WORK. 

This is a variation of ordinary crocheting, the 
stitches being those employed in that art. 

The work is done with regular crochet hooks 
of various sizes, as designated in the instructions. 

The novel feature is the fact, that in addition 
to the hook, one large wooden pin, made like an 
ordinary knitting pin, is required. On this pin 
the stitches are placed so that regularity in the 
height of the lattice work rows is attained. 

These "Lattice Pins" are made in four sizes, 
the largest, No. i, being almost four inches in 
circumference. For fine lattice work a knitting 
pin of the desired size can be substituted. 

The work is very simple and effective. 



YOUNG GIRL'S NORFOLK. 

(See illustration page 4) 

Materials Required: 

5 skeins Bear Brand German Knitting Yarn, 

i skein contrasting color, knitting yarn, 

i pair of amber knitting pins, No. 7 (14 in. long). 

1 amber crochet hook, No. 7, same length. 

Using two threads of the principal color cast 
on 46 stitches for the lower edge of sleeve. K. 
2, p. 2 for 15 rows. Knit 40 rows (20 purl). Knit 
the first stitch on pin throughout. On the 41st 
row increase by knitting 2 stitches in the first and 
last stitches of row. Continue to increase, in this 
way, on every fifth row until there are 56 stitches 
on the pin, then work without increasing, until 
there are 90 rows (45 purls) in all, for the sleeve. 
Cast on 70 stitches, knit back on these stitches 
and the 56 sleeve stitches, then cast on 70 more 
stitches. On these 196 stitches knit 30 rows. On 
the next row, k. 32, bind off 6 stitches for belt 
opening of front, knit until 42 stitches remain un- 
worked, then bind off 6 stitches for belt opening 
in back. On the next row, change to a single 
thread of contrasting color and knit back casting 
on the 12 stitches which were bound off for the 
openings. 

The Cro-Knitting band is next to be made of 
contrasting color. Beginning at the lower edge of 
the front make first fancy row as follows: with 
crochet hook pull a loop through first stitch on the 
knitting pin, slip loop from pin, * pull a loop 
through next stitch, pull another loop through 
the back of same stitch, slip stitch from pin, pull a 
loop through front of next stitch and another 
through back of same stitch, hold stitch on pin, 
wool over and through 4 loops on hook. ch. 1, 
pull a loop through back stitch of cluster, then 
slip stitch from pin, wool over and repeat from * 
until one stitch remains, do not throw wool over 
after last cluster, draw loop through final stitch. 

Second fancy row: k. 2, * k. the next stitch and 
the stitch that was thrown over together, k. 1 and 
repeat from * until 3 stitches remain, k. 3. Knit 
2 plain rows. Repeat the two fancy rows, knit 2 
plain rows and again repeat the two fancy rows, 
for the last fancy row changing to 2 threads of 
principal color. This completes the band. It will 



CRO-KNITTING 



be noticed that the wrong side of the first fancy 
row is shown on the right side of band. 

Knit ii rows, on the first two of these rows 
making openings for belt as made on the other 
side of Cro-Knitting band. The last row ends at 
the lower edge of the back. Knit 98 stitches for 
the length of back and run remaining stitches on 
to a thread; turn, k. the first 2 stitches together 
then knit to the end of the row. At the end of the 
next row knit the last 2 stitches together to shape 
the neck. Knit 22 rows, then 2 rows, increasing 1 
stitch on each row, at neck end. Run these stitches 
on an extra pin or thread but do not fasten off 
wool. Take another ball and make right front. 
Cast on 94 stitches with contrasting color and knit 
4 rows, make 2 fancy rows of Cro-Knitting, knit 
1 row, on the next row make button holes, as fol- 
lows: k. 3, * bind off 3, k. 8 and repeat from *. 
Eight button holes, in all. On the next row cast 
on the 3 stitches opposite those bound off. Knit 
one row then repeat the two fancy rows, on the 
last of these change to principal color. Knit 8 
rows, then 4 rows increasing 1 stitch at the neck 
end of each row. The last row should end at the 
neck. Fasten off wool. 

Take the stitches of the back from the thread 
on to knitting pin beginning with the stitch at 
the lower edge of back and with the ball of wool 
left there, work to the lower edge of the front. 
Knit 11 plain rows, not forgetting the belt open- 
ings, then 1 row of contrasting color and repeat 
Cro-Knitting band as made on first side. Make 
second side of back and sleeve to match first side. 
After finishing the 15 rows of k. 2, p. 2 ribbing on 
second sleeve, knit 2 plain rows, of contrasting 
color, then repeat the Cro-Knitting band as made 
on body of garment, making four patterns instead 
of three to form turn back cuff. Make two extra 
plain rows and bind off. 

Pick up the 46 stitches at bottom of first sleeve 
and on them knit second cuff to match first one 
made. 

Take the 98 stitches from thread and on them 
knit the left front, as follows: knit 4 rows, decreas- 
ing by knitting 2 stitches together at the neck end of 
each row, then knit 16 rows plain and bind off on 
wrong side. 

Pick up 52 stitches around neck with contrast- 
ing color and knit 4 rows, 2 fancy Cro-Knitting 
rows, knit 1 row. Eighth row: k. 3, bind off 3, knit 
to end. On the next row cast on the 3 stitches 



bound off for the button hole. Knit 1 row, 2 fancy 
rows, knit 1 row and bind off. 

Belt: using contrasting color, cast on 134 
stitches and knit 4 rows, 2 fancy rows, k. 4 rows, 
2 fancy rows, k. 2 rows then bind off on wrong 
side. 

Sew up under arm seams and sleeves. 




CUTAWAY JACKET. 
Materials required: 

Yz box Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. 

2 skeins contrasting color Germantown, 4-fold. 

1 amber crochet hook, No. 4, 14 inches long. 

1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 4, same length. 



8 



THE NEW ART 



Using the principal color, cast on 78 stitches 
and work, in Raspberry stitch, as follows: 

First row: knit plain. 

Second row: purl. 

Third row: with crochet hook make 1 d. c. in 
first stitch, slip stitch from pin; * 1 d. c. through 
the next two stitches, keeping the stitches on knit- 
ting pin, 1 s. c. through the back of the same two 
stitches. Slip the two knitted stitches from the 
pin and repeat from * all along the row, ending 
with 1 d. c. in the final stitch. 

Fourth row: purl. 

Fifth row: knit. 

Sixth row: like third. These six rows consti- 
tute one pattern and are repeated over and over 
again for the whole jacket. After four rows of 
clusters have been made, decrease by knitting 
together the two first and the two last stitches of 
the knitted row. Begin the next cluster row by 
working a whole cluster through the two first 
stitches on pin and end row in same manner 
through the two last stitches. Make one more 
row of clusters, in same way, then decrease, as 
before, on the knitted row. The next two clus- 
ter rows will begin and end with 1 d. c. in the 
first and last stitches. 

Continue to decrease in this way, until six 
stitches in all have been decreased at each end. 
66 stitches remain. After two more cluster rows 
have been made, increase, by knitting two stitches 
in the first and last stitches of the knitted row, 
and continue to increase after each cluster row 
until 4 stitches have been added at each end. On 
these 74 stitches continue until the work measures 
about 23 inches, or is long enough to reach to 
the neck. 

Divide for neck and shoulders, as follows: knit 
28 stitches and run them on a thread or extra 
pin; bind off 18 stitches for neck and on the re- 
maining 28 stitches begin the left front. Increase 
at the neck end, on each of the knitted and purled 
rows until there are 50 stitches on the pin. On 
these 50 stitches continue until four cluster rows 
have been made, then at front edge decrease 1 
stitch on each of the knitted and purled rows, 



keeping the under-arm seam straight until waist- 
line has been reached; then increase at the under 
arm seam on the knitted and purled rows, every 
other time. Continue decreasing on front edge, 
as before. Work until front is as long as the 
back, and bind off. 

Take the stitches from the thread and on them 
make the right front, as left was made, taking 
care to keep them opposites. Sew up the under- 
arm seams, leaving enough space at the top for 
the arm holes. 



BORDER. Around the entire garment and 
arm holes work, in plain crocheting, as follows: 

First round: 1 s. c. in each stitch. 

Second round: 1 d. c. in each stitch of preced- 
ing round, putting extra stitches on rounding 
corners to prevent capping. 

Third round: 1 d. c. around the post of each 
d. c. of second round. No extra stitches on cor- 
ners. When this round has been finished turn 
it back all around garment. 

Using the contrasting color, work around outside 
edge, as follows: * 1 s. c. in stitch, ch. 3, another 
s. c. in same stitch, skip 1 stitch and repeat from 
* all around. Work the same finish all around 
the edge of the turned-back round, skipping one 
stitch between picots around neck and sleeves 
and on the rounding edges skipping two stitches 
between or enough to make the border perfectly 
flat. 

Fasten the right front over the left with cro- 
cheted buttons and frogs made of the contrasting 
color. The frogs are made of a chain stitch cord, 
using two threads of the wool. Use washable but- 
ton molds and crochet a covering for them, as 
follows: ch. 3 and join in a ring, 6 s. c. in the 
ring. Do not join. 2 s. c. in each stitch of the 
preceding round, then widen enough to make 
work flat until the desired size has been attained. 
Make 1 round without widening and then skip 
every other stitch until proper size. Slip in mold, 
draw up and sew in place. 

Place three buttons and frogs on each under- 
arm seam. 



CRO-KNITTING 




Lattice Work Scarf 



10 



THE NEW ART 



LATTICE-WORK SCARF. 

Materials Required: 

13 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. 
4 skeins Bear Brand Rococo Wool. 
1 amber or bone crochet hook, No. 5. 
1 Lattice Pin, No. 1 (16 inches long). 

(Note — These directions are based on 16 skeins 
to the box Germantown. If the "To skeins to the 
box" wool is used, the number of skeins required 
will be proportionately less.) 

Using the Germantown and crochet hook, chain 
62 and turn. Make 1 double crochet stitch (1 d. 
c.) in the fourth chain from the needle and 1 d. 
c. in each of the other chains. 60 d. c. in all, 
counting the three chains skipped as 1 d. c. Turn. 
The work should measure 14 inches in length and 
be M of an inch high. 

Second row: ch. 2, wool over and take up a 
loop through the front thread of the second stitch 
of previous row, wool over and through all three 
loops on needle, thus forming one short, double 
crochet stitch. Continue making 1 s. d. c. in each 
stitch to the end, always counting the chain made 
when beginning row as one stitch. Turn. 60 
stitches. 

Third row: chain 3, 1 d. c. in second and each 
succeeding stitch of previous row, taken through 
the double thread. 60 stitches. 

Repeat second and third rows until there are 
rive rows, in all, or the work measures 3 inches 
in depth; ending with a double crochet row. 

The border is next to be made. Turn and * draw 
a loop through the back thread of first stitch and 
through the loop on needle, thus forming 1 slip 
stitch (1 s. s.). Repeat from * in each stitch of 
row. Turn. Make 1 single crochet stitch in each 
stitch of double crochet row taking up the back 
thread. Through the last stitch draw the Rococo 
wool and fasten off Germantown. 

Lattice Work: draw up the loop of Rococo and 
slip it on the Lattice pin. This pin is held under 
the right arm firmly. Hold the wrong side of 
work toward you and with crochet hook pull a 
loop of wool through the double threads of second 
stitch and slip it on the pin. Continue drawing 
one loop through each stitch to the end — 60 loops 



on pin. Join on the Germantown and fasten off 
Rococo. Slip loops off the pin. * Draw the 
fourth, fifth and sixth loops, in turn, through the 
first three loops and make 1 s. c. in each loop as 
it is drawn through; then 1 s. c. in each of the first 
three loops, thus forming the lattice. Repeat from 
* all along row. Turn. 

Repeat the four border rows over and over 
until there are five rows of lattice work. Then 
repeat the first, second and again the first row. 
When making the second rows the stitches are to 
be taken up on the back threads of the fourth rows. 

The center is made as the second and third rows 
of scarf were made: the first row of d. c. being 
taken on back thread of border and all subse- 
quent d. c. rows taken through the double thread. 
Make center 50 inches long, then repeat border. 
Make 5 rows to match beginning and then begin 
border down the side of scarf. Make a row of s. c. 
putting 3 s. c. in the end of each d. c. row and 2 
s. c. in each s. d. c. row, or enough to make work 
flat. Across the end of each lattice row chain 3. 
Be sure this row contains a multiple of six stitches. 
Turn and slip stitch on the back thread of s. c. 
stitches and across the 3 chained stitches. Con- 
tinue as border was made on ends until two rows 
of lattice work have been made, then repeat first, 
second and again the first border rows and fasten 
off. Finish second side in same manner. Across 
the ends put a knotted-in fringe in every fourth 
stitch. Put six strands of Germantown in each 
tassel and cut strands 12 inches long. 



PORCH JACKET IN CRO-KNITTING. 
Materials Required: 

5 skeins of Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. 

2 skeins contrasting color Germantown, for trim- 
ming. 

1 pair No. 7 amber knitting pins, 10 inches long. 

1 No. 7 amber crochet hook, with knob, same 
length. 

(Note — These directions are based on 16 skeins 
to the box Germantown. If the "10 skeins to the 
box" wool is used, the number of skeins required 
will be proportionately less.) 

Using knitting pins and principal color, cast on 
28 stitches and work in Automobile Stitch (see 



11 



CRO-KNITTING 



page 6) until there are four patterns of 14 
clusters each. Then increase by picking up an 
extra stitch at each end of every afghan row until 
there are 26 clusters in the row. Make three pat- 
terns of 26 clusters when the work should be long 
enough to reach to the neck. On the next afghan 




Continue increasing in this way, at neck end, ^2 
cluster on each cluster row, until there are 14 
clusters in the row. Make four rows of 14 clus- 
ters. On the second knit row decrease as follows: 
k. 8, k. 2 together, k. 8, k. 2 tog., k. 8. 

Decrease in the same way on each of the next 
3 pattern rows, having 2 stitches less between the 
decreasings on each pattern. 

Make 5 patterns of 10 .clusters each, knit 3 rows 
and bind off. 

Go back to the neck, skip 12 stitches and pick 
up the final 20 stitches for the afghan row. On 
these stitches make right front to correspond to 
left front. 

Still using principal color, work around the 
entire jacket, as follows: * 1 s. c. ch. 1, skip 
enough space to make work lie flat and repeat 
from *. Draw a loop of the contrasting color 
through loop on hook. Ch. 1, draw up loop about 
34 of an inch, * wool over, pick up a loop in the 
chain space, wool over and pick up another loop 
in same space, wool over and through all 5 loops 
on hook, ch. 1, thus forming one cluster. Repeat 
from * all around jacket putting an extra cluster 
in each corner to prevent capping. Join with a 
slip stitch in the top of first cluster. Pull a loop 
of principal color through and make cluster round 
as before, putting clusters in the top of cluster 
of preceding round, followed by a round of clus- 
ters in contrasting color. Final round: use prin- 
cipal color, * 1 s. c. in top of cluster ch. 4, 1 d. c. 
in same space, skip 1 cluster and repeat from * all 
around. 

Lace up under arms with ribbons. 



ENGLISH SLEEPING SOCKS. 



Materials Required: 



row, pick up 19 loops with the one on pin, (20 in 
all) and make two patterns of 10 clusters each for 
the left shoulder. On next afghan row, increase 
one stitch at the neck end, make 2 knitted rows 
then turn, pick up a loop in first stitch, wool over 
and pick up another loop in same stitch, wool over 
and through 3 loops on hook, ch. 1, thus forming 
a half cluster. Continue in regular way. On the 
next cluster row there will be eleven clusters. 



2 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. 

1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2, 10 inches long. 

1 No. 2 amber crochet hook, 10 inches long. 

Cast on 72 stitches and purl one row. 

Second row: k. 1, increase (by picking up and 
knitting the thread) k. 34, increase, knit 2, increase, 
k. 34, increase, k. 1. 



12 



THE NEW ART 



Third and every alternate row: purl. 

Fourth row: k. 2, increase, knit 34. increase, k. 

1, increase, k. 2 for center, then reverse directions. 

Sixth row: k. 1, increase, k. 39. increase, knit 2 
and reverse. 

Eighth row: k. 2, increase, k. 39, increase, k. 1, 
increase, k. 2 and reverse. Purl 1 row. 

First pattern row: with crochet hook make 1 
double crochet (see page 6 ) in the first stitch. 

* 1 d. c. through two taken together, 1 d. c. 
through the back of the same two and repeat from 

* ending with 1 d. c. in the last stitch. 

Second row: k. 1, increase, purl the row, ending 
by purling the last 2 stitches together. 

Third row: like first. Purl three rows. 

Repeat the first and second rows. 

Ninth row: k. 43, * slip 1, k. 2 tog., pass the 
slipped stitch over and repeat from *, k. 43. 

Tenth row: p. 40, slip 1, k. 2 tog. pass the slipped 
stitch over, p. 2, slip 1, k. 2 tog. pass the slipped 
stitch over, p. 40. 

Eleventh row: (crochet) 1 d. c. * 1 d. c. through 

2. 1 d. c. in the back of same 2 and repeat from * 
17 times, more. 1 d. c. through 2, 1 d. c. through 
next 2 stitches, 1 d. c through next 2 and 1 d. c. 
in the back of same 2 (center) and reverse direc- 
tions. 

Twelfth row: purl 37, slip 1, k. 2 tog., pass the 
slipped stitch over, slip 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped 
stitch over, purl 27- 

On the thirteenth row the instep tab is com- 
menced. Knit 33, k. 2 tog., k. 6, k. 2 tog. Turn. 

Fourteenth row: slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 tog. Turn. 

Fifteenth row: slip 1, knit 6, knit 2 tog. Turn. 

Repeat the last 2 rows. 

Nineteenth row: slip 1, k. 6, k. 2 tog., k. 1. Turn. 

Twentieth row: slip 1, purl 7, purl 2 tog., p. 1. 
Turn. 

Twenty-first row: slip 1, k. 8, k. 2 tog. Turn. 

Twenty-second row: slip 1, p. 8. p. 2 tog. Turn. 

Repeat the last 2 rows until there are 40 stitches, 
in all, on the pins; then continue along the row, 



knitting the 15 stitches on the left hand needle. 
Purl 1 row. 

First leg row: (crochet) 1 d. c, * 1 d. c. through 
2, 1 d. c. in the back of same 2 and repeat from * 
1 d. c. in final stitch. Purl 1 row. 

Repeat first row. 




Fourth row: purl 1, increase, purl the row end- 
ing by purling the last 2 stitches together. 

Fifth row: k. 1, increase, knit along row, in- 
crease k. 1. 

Sixth row: purl 3, increase, purl along the row, 
ending by increasing, then purling last 3. 

Repeat the first and second rows, twice, then re- 
peat the fifth and sixth rows. 

Repeat these last 6 (six) pattern rows, twice, 
then make four plain rows of alternate knitting 
and purling and bind off. Sew up seams. 



13 



CRO- KNIT TING 




Bordered Scarf in Cro-Knitting 



14 



THE NEW ART 



BORDERED SCARF IN CRO-KNITTING. 
Materials Required: 

9 skeins Bear Brand Shetland Floss (12 skeins 
to the box). 

2 skeins contrasting color Shetland Floss and 

3 skeins same color Bear Brand Felicity Floss. 
1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 13. 

1 amber crochet hook No. 13 (14 inches long). 



Third pattern row: with principal color knit 1. 
* knit 1. knit the back of next stitch and repeat 
from * ending with knit 1 in the final stitch. Make 
three plain garter stitch rows in the principal 
color, followed by 2 garter stitch rows in the 
contrasting color. These 8 rows constitute the pat- 
tern and are repeated five times for the border at 
each end of the scarf. 

The center of scarf is plain garter stitch and is 
45 inches long. Repeat border, then make 14 rows, 
in garter stitch and bind off. 



Using two threads of the principal color cast on 
50 stitches loosely and knit 14 rows (7 purls) in 
plain garter stitch. For the first stitch of each 
row, insert the needle as if to purl, slip stitch and 
put thread back under the point of the pin, thus 
forming a chain edge. The work should measure 
fifteen inches across and be three inches in depth. 

The Cro-Knitting is next to be made. Draw 
two threads of the contrasting color through (one 
of Shetland and one of Felicity) but do not break 
off the principal color: knit two rows in plain 
garter stitch; then using same color and crochet 
hook make first pattern row. Insert the hook 
through the loop on the knitting pin as though it 
were a second knitting pin, holding the wool over 
the fingers of the left hand. Draw wool through 
first stitch and chain 2; slip the knitted stitch from 
the pin. * Wool over from back to front and pick 
up a loop in second stitch on pin, wool over and 
through 2; wool over in same way and pick up 
a loop in first stitch, wool over and through two, 
slip the 2 knitted stitches that have been worked 
into from the pin and repeat from * all along row; 
ending with ch. 2 in final stitch as first stitch was 
made. 

Second pattern row: with same wool and knit- 
ting pin, slip 1, * over, knit 2 tog. and repeat from 
* all along row, knit final stitch. When knitting 
from the crochet hook the point of the hook must 
be kept pointing downward to avoid catching the 
wool. 



Pick up all the stitches along one side of the 
scarf with principal color and crochet hook, tak- 
ing up both stitches of chain as one stitch and 
taking up 3 stitches in each of the stripes of con- 
trasting color; knit off with knitting pin, making 
4 rows of garter stitch, then draw through con- 
trasting color, dropping principal color and make 
two rows of garter stitch, next make the three 
pattern rows, then knit 3 rows of principal color 
in garter stitch and crochet off with slip stitch, 
binding off that side of scarf; repeat for the 
other side. 

Make a fringe across the ends as follows: * 
insert the crochet hook in first stitch on bottom 
of scarf and with double thread of principal color, 
chain 10 loosely, pull up long loop on needle, — 
wool over, insert hook into last chain made and 
pull up long loop, repeat from — four times, wool 
over and through all loops on hook, chain I, 
pull up long loop and catch with slip stitch in chain 
in which cluster was made, make a tight s. c. 
around chain. Chain 10, skip 7 s. c. on bottom 
of scarf, 1 s. c. in the next and repeat from * all 
across the end. With two threads of contrasting 
color, make 1 s. c. in fourth stitch and repeat fringe 
as made in principal color. To gain the cross 
effect, slip chain made and ball of wool through 
long loop of principal color before making the s. c. in 
the bottom of scarf. The fringe for each tassel 
consists of 10 loops of 20 chain stitches made with 
single thread to correspond. 



15 



CRO-KNITTING 




Empire Scarf in Cro-Knitting 



16 



THE NEW ART 



EMPIRE SCARF IN CRO-KNITTING. 
Materials Required: 

7 skeins Bear Brand Shetland Floss. 

9 skeins Bear Brand Felicity Floss. 

i pair amber knitting pins, No. 9 (14 in. long). 

1 amber crochet hook. No. 9, same length. 

(Note— These directions arc based on 12 skeins of 
Shetland floss to the box. If the "8 skeins to the 
box" doss is used, the number of skeins required 
ivill be proportionately less.) 

Wind the wools in separate balls. 

Using a thread of each wool and the knitting 
pins, cast on 38 stitches, loosely. Knit two rows. 

First pattern row: using crochet hook, knit two 
stitches, wool over and pick up a loop around 
third stitch of first foundation row, wool over and 
draw a loop through next stitch on pin, wool over 
and through 4 loops on hook, slip stitch from 
knitting pin thus forming one cluster. Knit the 
next stitch, * wool over-, skip one stitch on first 
row and make cluster, (as before) around the next 
stitch and the stitch on pin, knit 1 stitch and re- 
peat from * to the end of the row. 

Second pattern row: k. 2 in the first and last 
stitches of preceding row and k. 1 in each inter- 
vening stitch. 

Third pattern row: using crochet hook, k. 1, 1 
cluster around end stitch of second pattern row 
and stitch on pin, k. 1, then work like first row, 
ending the row with knit 2. 

Fourth row: like second. 

Repeat these four rows until the scarf is the 
desired width, about 20 inches, then omit the 
widening stitches on the knitted rows, making all 
the crocheted rows like first row, until the work 
is 68 inches in length. Make second end of scarf 
to match first end; decreasing on each knitted row 
by knitting together the two first and two last 
stitches, being careful to preserve the pattern. 
When there are again 38 stitches on needle, bind 
off. 

Down the side of scarf work scallop as follows: 

* 1 single crochet stitch in first stitch, ch. 2, 1 
double crochet stitch in same stitch, skip enough 
space to make work smooth and repeat from * 
to the end. This is ordinary crocheting. 

Across the end work in knot stitch as follows: 

* draw up the loop on hook about V± in., wool 



over and through loop this time very short since 
it is really the first loop of an s. c. Take up the 
second loop of the s. c. through the new long 
loop. Pull wool through the 2 loops on needle 
and the s. c. (or knot as it is called) is finished. 
The present loop on the needle should be pulled 
up long and corresponds to the first loop made. 
When it is pulled up, hold the knot just made be- 
tween the thumb and forefinger and repeat direc- 
tions from * Skip one stitch on edge of scarf 
and make 1 s. c. in the next and repeat from be- 
ginning all across edge. Make scallop on second 
side and finish second end like first. 

Cut the wool for fringe in ten-inch lengths and 
knot 4 threads of each wool through the s. c. in 
the center of each knot stitch loop. 




SCHOOL BAG IN LATTICE-WORK. 
Materials Required: 

10 balls Bear Macrame, No. 100. 

1 wood knitting pin, No. 1. 

1 Star crochet hook, No. 1. 

2 bone rings, at least 2 inches in diameter. 

Using crochet hook, chain 101; turn, skip 1 chain 
and make 1 single crochet stitch (1 s. c.) in each 



17 



CRO-KNITTING 



chain to the end. The work should measure full 
20 inches. If a deeper bag is desired, the row 
should contain a multiple of 4 stitches, but more 
material will be required. 

Second row: turn and make 1 slip stitch, as fol- 
lows, on the back thread of each stitch of preced- 
ing row: insert the hook and draw cord through 
stitch and the loop on hook. 

Third row: turn, 1 s. c. in the back thread of 
each of the s. c. stitches of first row, being careful 
to work into first stitch which is inclined to draw 
down and be overlooked. 

Lattice row: draw up a long loop and slip it on 
the knitting pin, draw working thread in place. 
The pin is held under right arm firmly. Hold 
wrong side of work toward you and with crochet 
hook * pull a long loop of cord through the 
double threads of second stitch, slip it on pin, 
draw working thread in place and repeat from * 
in each stitch of row. 100 loops on pin. Slip 
loops from pin. 

Fifth row: turn, * draw the third loop 
through the two first loops and in it 
make 1 s. c, draw fourth loop through and in 
it make 1 s. c, then 1 s. c. in each of the first 
and second loops, thus forming the lattice. Repeat 
from * all along row. Turn. Repeat second and 
third rows, for the latter taking up the back thread 
of stitches of fifth row. The second, third, fourth 
and fifth rows constitute one pattern and are re- 
peated until there are 14 lattice rows: then repeat 
the second and third rows. Fold in center and slip 
stitch together working on right side. 

Make second bag in same manner. 

Around the top of each bag crochet, as follows: 
beginning in the center heavy bar, of one side 
make 1 s. c. * ch. 2, 2 s. c. in next heavy bar and 
repeat from * all around ending with 1 s. c. in the 
center bar in which round was commenced, join 
and fasten off for one bag. For the second bag, 
after joining, draw up loop and work in knot 
stitch, as follows: draw up the loop on hook a 
full y 2 inch, cord over and through loop this time 
very short since it is really the first loop of a 
single crochet. Take up the second loop of the s. 
c. through the new long loop. Pull cord through 
the 2 loops on needle and the s. c. (or knot as it 
called) is finished. The present loop on the needle 
should be pulled up long and corresponds to first 
loop made. When it is pulled up, hold the knot 
just made between the thumb and forefinger and 



repeat from *. Skip 4 chains on the top of bag 
and make 1 s. c. in each of the next 2 stitches and 
repeat from beginning all around the top of bag. 

Second row: make 3 loops and 3 knots, as be- 
fore, to turn 1 s. c. through the double thread on 
right side of last knot of first row and another 
s. c. on left side of knot (skipping the s. c. worked 
in first row), * then 2 loops and 2 knots catch- 
ing down in next knot of second row, with 2 s. c. 
Repeat from * across row, a perfect square of 4 
loops being formed every time the loops are caught 
down. 

Repeat second row until the center of knot 
stitch measures 12 inches then slip rings over and 
join on second bag to match first. 

Around the opening formed by the knot stitch, 
make * 1 slip stitch in knot, ch. 3 and repeat from 
* all around. 



AFGHAN WITH DIAMOND STRIPE. 
Materials Required: 

13 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 8-fold. 
9 skeins contrasting color, Germantown, 8-fold. 
1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 9 (10 in. long). 
1 amber crochet hook, No. 9, same length. 

(Note — These directions are based on 16 skeins 
to the box Germantozvn. If the "10 skeins to the 
box" wool is used, the number of skeins required 
will be proportionately less.) 

The Cro-Knitting stripe is made first. Cast on 
26 stitches with the principal color. Knit two 
plain rows. 

Third row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 tog. and repeat from 
* across row, k. last stitch. 

Fourth row: k. 2, * k. the over st., k. 1 and 
repeat from *. 

Knit two rows plain. 

Seventh row: with contrasting color and crochet 
hook, pull a loop through the first stitch, ch. 1 
tightly, k. 1, wool over twice, pick up a loop, in- 
serting hook from first to second opening in third 
row, wool over, through 2 loops on needle, wool 
over, pick up another loop in same space, wool 
over and through 3 loops on needle, again wool 
over and through 3 loops on needle, * k. the next 
two stitches tog., wool over twice, pick up a loop 
from the second to third opening in third row, 



18 



THE NEW ART 



wool over and through 2, wool over and pick up 
another loop in same place, wool over and through 
3, again wool over and through 3 and repeat from 
* across row, k. the last 2 stitches. 

Eighth row: with same wool and knitting pin, 
k. 3. * on the contrasting thread before the next 
stitch knit I stitch, then knit next stitch and repeat 
from * knit last stitch. 

With principal color knit 4 rows. 

These last ten rows constitute one pattern. 

Repeat 18 times when the stripe should be about 
31 inches long and seven inches wide. 

Bind off. Make 2 more stripes in same manner. 



as Cro-Knitting stripes. Make another stripe in 
same way. 

Join the stripes alternately, with single crochet 
stitches worked on wrong side of afghan. 

Border. Across each end, with contrasting 
color, make scallops, as follows: 1 s. c. in first 
stitch, ch. 2, * wool over needle twice, skip about 
4 stitches, (arranging scallops so that there are 
3 tfp the Cro-Knitting stripe and 1 in the center of 
Diamond stripe) pick up a loop, wool over and 
through 2, wool over and pick up another loop 
in same place, wool over and through 2, wool 
over and pick up third loop in same place, 




Diamond Stripe: cast on 13 stitches. 
First row: knit plain. 
Second row: k. 2, p. 9, k. 2. 
Third row: knit plain. 
Fourth row: like second. 
Fifth row: k. 6, p. 1, k. 6. 
Sixth row: k. 2, p. 3. k. 3, p. 3, k. 2. 
Seventh row: k. 4, p. 5, k. 4. 
Eighth row: k. 2, p. 1, k. 7, p. 1, k. 2. 
Ninth row: like seventh. 
Tenth row: like sixth. 
Eleventh row: like fifth. 

Repeat from the beginning of the second row. 
These ten rows constitute one pattern and are 
made over and over again until stripe is same length 



wool over and through 2, wool over and 
through 4, wool over and through 2, ch. 2 and 
repeat from * twice, 3 clusters in same stitch, ch. 

1, skip the required space, 1 s. c. ch. 1 and make 
same scallop all across. 

With principal color make * I s. c. in first space 
of scallop, ch. 2, — 1 d. c. around the post at the 
top of first cluster, ch. 2, 1 s. c. in next space. 
Repeat from — twice. Ch. 2, 1 s. c. around the 
s. c. of row below, ch. 2 and repeat from * all 
across scallops. 

Down each side, work as follows: * 1 s. c, ch. 

2, 1 d. c. around the s. c. just made, skip enough 
space to make work lie flat, 1 s. c, ch. 1, skip as 
before and repeat. 



19 



CRO-KNITTING 




Persian Scarf 



20 



THE NEW ART 



PERSIAN SCARF. 
Materials Required: 

13 skeins Bear Brand Shetland Floss. 
4 skeins Bear Brand Persian Lamb Wool. 
1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 13 (14 in. long), 
i amber crochet hook No. 13, same length. 

(Note — These directions are based on 12 skeins of 
Shetland floss to the box. If the "S skeins to the 
box" floss is used, the number of skeins required 
will be proportionately less.) 

Wind the Shetland Floss in separate balls and 
use two threads. Cast on 200 stitches which 
should make length of scarf two yards. 

First row: with two threads of Shetland and one 
of Persian Lamb used together knit each stitch: 
turn. 

Second row: divide threads holding the Persian 
Lamb at the back of work, as regular knitting 
thread is used and the two threads of Shetland in 
front of work, toward left hand. * With crochet 
hook, pull a loop of Persian Lamb through first 
stitch, drop stitch from knitting pin then throw 
Shetland Floss over hook and draw it through the 
loop of Persian Lamb just made. Repeat from * 
in each stitch of previous row, always keeping 
Shetland Floss in front of work. 

Repeat the first and second rows, twice. 

Seventh row: drop the Persian Lamb wool 
temporarily, add two more threads of Shetland 
Floss and using the four threads together knit 2 
rows in plain garter stitch. 

Repeat first and second rows, then two rows as 
seventh row was made and again repeat first and 
second rows. 

This completes the border. Fasten oft' the 
Persian Lamb wool and substitute for it two 
threads of Shetland Floss. 

Repeat first and second rows alternately until 
there are 20 ridges, which should measure full 12 
inches for the center of the scarf. 

Repeat the border as made on the other edge 
and bind off. 

Finish ends as follows: with two threads of 
Shetland Floss make 1 single crochet stitch in first 
stitch, * skip about an inch and a half along edge 
and make 13 treble crochet stitches (winding the 
thread over the hook twice) in next stitch, skip 



same space on edge and make 1 s. c. in the next 
stitch and repeat from *. There should be six of 
these large shells across end. Do not break off 
wool but work along the side of scarf, as follows: 

* 1 s. c, ch. 3, 1 s. c. around the post of the first 
s. c. skip 1 st. and repeat from * all along. Work 
the shells across second end and the scallop along 
second side, then fasten off. 

With Persian Lamb wool work across ends, as 
follows: fasten wool in first stitch of previous row, 

* pull out loop 2 inches, pull wool through loop 
and make a tight ch. stitch to fasten it and repeat 
from * twice more, make 1 s.. c. in same space on 
edge where wool was fastened 1 s. c. in first space 
of shell, ch. 1. skip 1 space, 1 s. c. in next space 
of shell and repeat until the center stitch has been 
reached. There pull up loop and fasten as be- 
fore, make another two-inch loop and fasten; then 
1 s. c. in the middle space of shell. * Ch. 1, skip 
1 space, 1 s. c. in next space and repeat from * 
twice, then 1 s. c. in the single crochet stitch be- 
tween shells and repeat from the beginning of 
row. 



POLISH AFGHAN. 
Materials Required: 

51 skeins Bear Brand Zephyr Germantown, 8-fold. 
24 skeins contrasting color, 8-fold Germantown. 

1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 9. 

1 amber crochet hook, No. 9 (14 inches long). 

(Note — These directions are based on 16 skeins 
to the box Germantoivn. If the "10 skeins to the 
box" -wool is used, the number of skeins required 
will be proportionately less.) 

STRIPE IN CRO-KNITTING: with the prin- 
cipal color cast on 30 stitches and knit three rows. 
Do not break off wool. 

Change to the contrasting color and knit 2 
rows; then using same color and crochet hook 
make first pattern row. Insert the hook through 
the loop on the knitting pin as though it were a 
second knitting pin holding the wool over the 
fingers of the left hand. Draw wool through first 
stitch and chain 2. Slip the knitted stitch from 
needle. * Wool over from back to front and pick 
up a loop in second stitch on pin, wool over and 
through 2; wool over in same way and pick up a 
loop in first stitch, wool over and through 2, slip 
the 2 knitted stitches that have been worked into 



21 



CRO-KNITTING 



from the pin and repeat from * all along row; end- 
ing with ch. 2 in final stitch as first stitch was 
made. 

Second pattern row: with same wool and knit- 
ting pin, slip i, * over, knit 2 together and repeat 
from * all along row. Knit final stitch. When 
knitting from the crochet hook, the point of the 
hook must be kept pointing downward to avoid 
catching the wool. 

Third row: with principal color, knit 1, * knit 1, 



Make three more stripes in Cro-Knitting. 

Braided Twist stripe: with the principal color, 
cast on 19 stitches and knit first row. . 

Second row: knit 5, purl 9, k. 5. 

Third row: k. 5, slip the next 3 stitches on, to a 
spare pin and drop them in front of the work, k. 3, 
knit the 3 stitches slipped, k. 8. 

Fourth row: like second. 

Fifth row: knit plain. 

Sixth row: like second. 




knit the back of next stitch and repeat from * 
ending with knit 1 in the final stitch. 

Make three plain garter stitch rows in the prin- 
cipal color, followed by 2 garter stitch rows in 
the contrasting color. 

These 8 rows constitute one pattern and are 
repeated over and over until the stripe measures 
68 inches. Finish with the garter stitch row of 
principal color. This stripe should be S J / 2 inches 
wide. 



Seventh row: k. 8. slip the next 3 stitches on to 
extra pin and drop them behind the work, k. 3, 
knit the 3 stitches slipped off, k. 5. 

Eighth row: like second. 

Repeat these eight rows until the stripe is same 
length as the Cro-Knitting stripes. Make 2 more 
stripes of same length. 

Join the stripes, one of each kind alternately, 
working with principal color in s. c. and on the 
wrong side. 



22 



THE NEW ART 



The border around entire afghan is made of the 
braided twist stripe as the connecting stripes were 
made. Each corner is mitered as follows: cast on 
one stitch and in it knit i stitch, then knit a sec- 
ond stitch on the back thread of same stitch, thus 
increasing, turn, knit 2 stitches in first stitch, one 
stitch in next. 

Continue increasing 1 stitch on each row always 
on the same side and being careful to carry out the 
directions for the pattern until there are 19 stitches 
on the pin. Keep outside edge straight. Then 
work until stripe is desired length and decrease 
by knitting together 2 stitches at the same end of 
every row as the increasing was done. Sew up the 
mitered corners and sew or crochet border on 
working from wrong side, as before. 



ANGORA ROSEBUD CAP. 
(Six months size.) 
Materials required: 

3 balls (y 2 oz.) Three Rabbit Angora wool, or 
9 small balls. 

1 amber crochet hook, No. 3. 

Work rather loosely. 

Ch. 3 and join in a ring. Make six single cro- 
chet stitches (6 s. c.) in the ring. Do not join as 
the work is done around and around both threads 
of stitch of previous round being taken up 
throughout the work. 

Second round: 2 s. c. in each stitch. 

Third round: * 2 s. c. in first stitch, 1 s. c. in 
each of the next two stitches and repeat from * 
all around. 

Fourth round: * 2 s. c. in first stitch, 1 s. c. in 
each of the next 4 stitches and repeat from * all 
around. 

Continue working, increasing just enough to 
keep the work perfectly flat, until the crown is 
four inches in diameter. For a larger size this 
diameter must be increased. There are 12 
rounds in the model cap. At the end of last 
round, turn and work back for 10 stitches (about 

2 inches) to form the neck rows. Turn, * skip 
one stitch, 1 s. c. in next and repeat from * 5 
stitches on neck. Put one more s. c. in last 
stitch then work around crown to the other end 
of the neck rows, putting 1 s. c. in each stitch 
of previous round. Turn. Work back and forth 
to form front of cap without widening for 24 
rows, in all, being careful to make first and last 



stitches of each row rather tighter than the rest 
so that the neck of cap is kept a good shape. 
There are 56 stitches on these rows on the model 
cap, which measure i2]/ 2 inches from end to end. 
The front should now be the desired depth, if not 
add more rows. 




Final row of front: 19 s. c, 1 s. c. through the 
next two stitches taken together, 3 s. c, narrow 
as before, 4 s. c, narrow, 3 s. c, narrow, 19 s. c. 

Chain 3, turn and work a row of ribbon holes 
across neck part, as follows : * skip 2 rows, 1 d. c. 
in the end of next row, ch. 1 and repeat from 
* all across, skipping one stitch on bottom of 
crown. 

Border: ch. 3, * 1 s. c. in first stitch of front, 
chain 3, skip 3 and repeat from * all around front 
and neck, skipping fewer stitches at corners, to 
prevent capping. 

Final round: * 1 s. c. in space, chain 3, one d. 
c. in same space and repeat from * all around. 



23 



CRO-KNITTING 









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Dresden Set 

Coat, Cap and Bootees 



24 



THE NEW ART 



DRESDEN BABY COAT. 

Materials Required: 

3 skeins Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold. 

2 skeins green, Glossilla Rope, No. 264. 

1 skein pink, Glossilla Rope, No. 200. 

2 skeins blue, Glossilla Rope, No. 108. 

1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2 (10 in. long). 
1 amber crochet hook, No. 2 (10 inches long). 

(N 0TE _ These directions are based on 20 skeins 
to the box Saxony. If the "12 skeins to the box" 
wool is used the amount will be proportionately 
less.) 

The yoke is made first. Chain 80 and work in 
afghan "stitch (see Bear Brand Manual of Handi- 
work) for fifteen rows. The shoulders are next 
to be formed. Pick up the first 29 stitches and on 
them make 2 rows, then 2 more rows, on each of 
these rows picking up an extra stitch at the neck 
end; then with another ball of wool add a chain 
of 16 there and on the 47 stitches work 16 rows. 

On the next row, work as follows: pick up per- 
pendicular bar as usual then draw wool through 
stitch on needle, thus working off. Continue in 
this way until 18 stitches remain and on these 
stitches work the front tab. This should meas- 
ure eleven inches, from the neck to end. 
Work off stitches, as before. Go back to neck and 
omitting 22 stitches there, work the second 
shoulder on the remaining 29 stitches, taking care 
to keep them opposites. 

For the lower part of jacket, using the knit- 
ting pins, cast on 140 stitches. Knit three rows. 

Fourth row: with crochet hook make 1 d. c. 
(see page 6) in first stitch, * 1 d. c. through the 
next 2 stitches (drawing up the loop high), keep 
stitches on pin, pick up a loop through the back 
of the same two stitches then slip them off pin and 
repeat from * ending row with 1 d. c. in the final 
stitch. These four rows constitute one pattern 
and are repeated over and over until sixteen pat- 
terns have been made. The arm holes are next 
to be made. On the fourth row of next pattern 
make 1 d. c. then 15 clusters as usual, then run 
all the remaining stitches on a thread or extra 
pin and on these 31 stitches work eight short rows, 
in all, and bind off. Take 31 stitches from the 
end of thread and make second front to match 
first. Bind off 4 stitches at each end of the re- 



maining stitches for the armhole and on the 70 
stitches left, make the back the same length as the 
fronts. 

Sleeve. Cast on 48 stitches and make 11 pat- 
terns and three extra rows of plain knitting: then 
slip on hook and make 9 rows of afghan stitch 
for the cuff. Work off. Make second sleeve like 
first and sew up. 

Around the neck make a row of ribbon holes, 
as follows: * 1 d. c, ch. 1, skip 1 and repeat from 
* all across, make 1 row of s. c. and fasten off. 
Baste the lower part of jacket to the yoke, hold- 
ing the extra fulness across the back and fronts 
evenly. Join to yoke with slip stitches worked on 
wrong side. Sew sleeves in place. 

Work pearl edge on all the edges and around the 
yoke and top of cuffs, as follows: 1 s. c. around 
the post of foundation, ch. 3. wool over hook and 
pick up a loop through s. c. just made, wool over 
and pick up another loop in same place * skip 1 
stitch on foundation, draw a loop around the next 
stitch and through all the loops on hook, ch. 3. 
Wool over and through the third ch. from hook, 
wool over and through the same place and repeat 
from * 

Embroider the Dresden figures, as illustrated. 



DRESDEN BABY CAP. 

Materials Required: 

2 skeins Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold. 
1 skein each, Glossilla Rope, Nos. 264, 200, 108. 
1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2 (10 in. long.) 
1 amber crochet hook, No. 2 (10 inches long). 

Chain 16 and work in afghan stitch for 2 rows. 
On the third row widen one stitch when beginning 
and ending row by picking up an extra loop. Con- 
tinue to work in afghan stitch, widening, as before, 
on the sixth, eleventh, fifteenth and twentieth rows. 
On each of the next seven rows narrow one stitch 
at each end of row by picking up 2 perpendicular 
threads together. This completes the back of cap. 

Front band: chain 122 and make 13 rows in 
afghan stitch, finishing final row as directed for 
Dresden Baby Coat. 

The center of cap is in Cro-Knitting. It is begun 
at the front. Using the knitting pins cast on 118 



25 



CRO-KNITTING 



stitches and work as directed for lower part of 
coat. 

On the third row of second pattern, work as 
follows: k. 28, * k. 2 in the next stitch, k. 1 and 
repeat from * until 28 stitches remain, k. 28. Con- 
tinue without further increase until there are 11 
patterns, in all, then knit 3 rows and bind off. 

Join the Cro-Knitted center to the front with 
slip stitches worked on the wrong side. Draw the 
other edge in on a gathering thread of wool and 
sew around the back of crown. 



afghan stitch for 27 rows. On the next row nar- 
row by picking up the second and third perpen- 
dicular threads together, also the two just before 
the final stitch. Make one more row in same 
way and work off as directed. 

Fasten wool to the tenth row from point, ch. 
26 and join to same place on 'other side 'of 
afghan stripe. On these stitches the foot is to be 
made. Make 1 s. c. in each stitch all around leg 
and tab, putting an extra s. c. in each corner of 
the tab. 











































































































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DETAiiy of Dresden Embroidery 



X Green Gloss ilia 



+ Pink Glossilla 



<S> Blue Glossilla 



Around the entire cap and the joinings work in 
pearls, as directed for coat. 

Embroider the Dresden figures, as illustrated. 
Line the cap with silk. 

DRESDEN BOOTEES. 
Materials Required: 
1 skein Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold. 
1 skein each, Glossilla Rope, Nos. 264, 200, 108. 
1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2 (10 in. long.) 
1 amber crochet hook, No. 2. 

Using the crochet hook, chain 12 and work in 



Continue working around and around in s. c, 
taking up both threads of stitch of preceding round 
until 4 rounds, in all, have been made, on each 
round putting 2 s. c. in the stitch on each 
side of the center stitch of tab. 

On the next round leave 3 stitches in the center 
of tab, working 1 s. c. in each and increase in the 
stitches on each side of them, in the regular way. 
Sixth and seventh rounds: narrow each side of 
center stitch by skipping a stitch there. Eighth 
and ninth rounds: narrow at toe and also at heel 
by skipping 1 stitch at each side of center of heel. 



26 



THE NEW ART 



Turn bootee and join with s. c. 

Make a row of ribbon holes around the back 
of bootee, as follows: fasten wool in the 12th row 
from point of afghan stitch tab * ch. I, skip 1, 1 
d. c. in next and repeat from * all across. 

With the knitting pin pick up a loop in each 
stitch of preceding row and knit 2 rows. 

First pattern row: which should be worked on 
the wrong side of bootee. With crochet hook 
make 1 d. c. in first stitch, * 1 d. c. through the 
next 2 stitches (drawing up the loop high), keep 
stitches on pin, pick up a loop through the back 
of the same 2 stitches then slip them off pin and 
repeat from * ending row with 1 d. c. in the final 
stitch. 

Knit 3 rows. These four rows constitute one 
pattern. Repeat until there are six patterns in all, 
and bind off. 

Work all around tab and top of bootee with 
pearls, as directed for coat. 

Embroider with Dresden figures, as illustrated 
and trim with ribbon. 



KNITTED ANGORA BOOTEES. 
Materials Required: 

2 balls {y 2 oz.) Three Rabbit Angora Wool or 
8 small balls. 



widened row there will be one more stitch on each 
side of the widenings that are required to shape 
the front. The 2 center stitches are knitted be- 
tween widenings always. 

On the 52 stitches, on needle, knit 5 rows. 

Twenty-seventh and twenty-ninth rows: narrow 
by knitting the second and third stitches together 
and the two next to last stitches together. All the 




1 pair Bear Brand nickeled knitting pins, No. 8. 

1 small bone crochet hook. 

Cast on 30 stitches. Purl 1 row, knit 1 row, * 
purl 2 rows, knit 2 rows. Repeat from * twice, then 
purl 2 rows. 

Seventeenth row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 together and 
repeat from * ending row with k. 1. Purl one 
row. 

The foot of the bootee is in plain garter stitch 
throughout. First row: k. 14, over, k. 2, over, k. 
14. Second row: plain. 

Repeat the first and second rows until 21 rows 
in all have been made for the foot. On each 



even numbered rows are plain, without increase or 
decrease. 

Thirty-first row: k. 1, narrow (k. 2 tog.), k. 16, 
narrow, k. 6, narrow, k. 16, narrow, k. 1. 

Thirty-third row: k. 1. narrow, k. 14, narrow, k. 
6, narrow, k. 14, narrow, k. 1. 

Thirty-fifth row: k. 1. narrow, k. 12, narrow, k. 
2, narrow, k. 2, narrow, k. 12, narrow, k. 1. 

Bind off. Sew up the back seam and sole: then 
crochet an edge of tiny shells around the top, as 
follows: * 1 s. c, ch. 2. 1 d. c. in same place, skip 
2 stitches and repeat from *. 



11 



CRO-KNITTING 




Dresden Baby Afghan 



28 



THE NEW ART 



DRESDEN BABY AFGHAN. 
Materials required: 

ii skeins white, Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. 
2 skeins green Glossilla Rope, No. 264. 
2 skeins blue Glossilla Rope, No. 108. 
1 skein pink Glossilla Rope, No. 200. 
1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 4, 14 inches long. 
1 amber crochet hook No. 4, same length. 

(Note — These directions are based on 16 skeins 
to the box Germantown. If the "10 skeins to the 
box" zvool is used, the number of skeins required 
will be proportionately less.) 

The Cro -Knitted center of afghan is made first. 
Cast on 98 stitches and work as directed for lower 
part of "Dresden Baby Coat" (see page 25) 
until 40 patterns have been made. The work 
should be about 21 inches wide and 28 inches 
deep. Bind off. 

BORDER: chain 108 and work in afghan stitch 
as directed for "Afghan Stitch Stripe" (see page 
36) for 7 rows, widening by picking up an extra 
stitch at each end of every row. The first of 
these rows should be the exact width of the Cro- 
Knitted center. Final row: pick up loop, as usual, 
then draw wool through loop on hook. 

For the afghan stitch side stripe, chain 7 and 
make stripe same length as center, narrowing 
one stitch (by picking up last two bars together) 
on the same side of each of the last seven rows 
to form the mitered corner. Make another stripe 
in same manner, taking care to keep them op- 
posites. Sew up the mitered corners, then baste 
border to center. Use the wrong side of the 
fourth row of center as the right side of the work. 
Holding the right side of afghan stitch border 
toward you, make 1 short, double crochet stitch 
(1 s. d. c.) as follows through the first afghan 
stitch and the center: wool over and draw a loop 
through stitch, wool over and through all three 
loops on hook. Repeat in each stitch on all three 



sides of afghan, putting extra stitches at corners, 
to prevent capping. Holding the wrong side of 
work toward you, make a round of s. d. c. in 
same manner on the edge of afghan stitch border. 
Turn. 

Work back around the three sides in double 
crochet stitches, putting the stitches between the 
s. d. c. stitches of preceding round. Put 3 d. c. 
in each corner. Fasten off. 

Go back to other end and make puffs around 
the three sides, as follows: * 5 d. c. in the first 
stitch, drop loop and insert hook through the 
first d. c. made, draw loop through, ch. 1, skip 1 
stitch of preceding round and repeat from *. 
After the ch. 1 draw loop, on hook, up a little to 
prevent work from drawing in at the top. Do 
not skip any stitches at the corners, but skip 2 
stitches between puffs when working across the 
bottom of afghan. Fasten off. 

Go back, as before, * 1 d. c. in the top of puff, 
I d. c. in the next chain and repeat from * on all 
three sides. Extra stitches in corners. Fasten off. 

Final round: 1 s. c. in first stitch, * ch. 4 — wool 
over and pick up a loop in first ch. made, wool 
over and through 2 loops on hook, repeat from 
— three times, wool over and through all 5 loops 
on hook, ch. 1, skip 2 stitches, 1 s. c. in next and 
repeat from *. Skip only one stitch on each side 
of corners, to prevent capping. 

TURN-OVER: ch. 122 and work 3 rows in 
afghan stitch. On the fourth row narrow by 
picking up second and third bars together, also 
the two bars just preceding the final bar together. 
Repeat these four rows, twice; then narrow on 
every third row three times. Narrow on every 
second row until there are 30 rows in all, then 
work off as final row of afghan border was done. 
Sew to top of afghan, then make the five border 
rounds, as before, beginning with the short, 
double crochet round. 

Embroider as illustrated. 



For detail of embroidery see page 26. 



29 



CRO-KNITTING 




Child's Norfolk 



M) 



THE NEW ART 



CHILD'S NORFOLK. 

Materials Required: 

ii skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. 
1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 7 (14 in. long). 
1 amber crochet hook, No. 7, same length. 

(Note — These directions are based on 16 skeins 
to the box Germantown. If the "10 skeins to the 
box" two! is used, the number of skeins required 
will be proportionately less.) 

Cast on 46 stitches for the lower edge of sleeve. 
K. 2, p. 2 for 15 rows. Knit 40 rows (20 purls). 
Knit the first stitch on needle throughout. On the 
41st row increase by knitting 2 stitches in the first 
and last stitches of row. Continue to> increase, in 
this way, on every fifth row until there are 56 
stitches on the pin, then work, without increasing, 
until there are 90 rows (45 purls) in all, for the 
sleeve. Cast on 70 stitches, knit back on these 
stitches and the 56 sleeve stitches, then cast on 
70 more stitches. On these 196 stitches knit 30 
rows. On the next row, k. 32, bind off 6 stitches 
for belt opening of front, knit until 42 stitches re- 
main unworked, then bind off 6 stitches for belt 
opening in back. On the next row, cast on 12 
stitches which were bound off for openings. 

The Cro-Knitting band is next to be made. Be- 
ginning at the lower edge of the front make first 
fancy row, as follows: with crochet hook pull a 
loop through first stitch on knitting pin, slip loop 
from pin * pull a loop through next stitch, pull 
another loop through the back of same stitch, slip 
stitch from pin, pull a loop through front of next 
stitch and another through back of same stitch, 
hold stitch on pin, wool over and through 4 loops 
on hook, ch. 1, pull a loop through back stitch of 
cluster, then slip stitch from pin, wool over and re- 
peat from * until one stitch remains, do not throw 
wool over after last cluster, draw loop through 
final stitch. 

Second fancy row: k. 2, * k. the next stitch and 
the stitch that was thrown over together, k. 1 and 
repeat from * until 3 stitches remain, k. 3. 

Knit 2 plain rows. Repeat the two fancy rows, 
knit 2 plain rows and again repeat the two fancy 
rows. This completes the band. It will be noticed 
that the wrong side of the first fancy row is shown 
on the right side of band. 

Knit 11 rows on the first two of these rows, 



make openings for belt as made on the other side 
of Cro-Knitting band. The last row ends at the 
lower edge of back. Knit 98 stitches for the length 
of back and run remaining stitches on to a thread; 
turn, k. the first 2 stitches together then knit to 
the end of row. At the end of next row knit the 
last 2 stitches together to shape the neck. Knit 22 
rows, then 2 rows, increasing 1 stitch on each row, 
at neck end. Run these stitches on an extra pin 
or thread, but do not fasten off wool. Take an- 
other ball and make right front. Cast on 94 stitches 
and knit 4 rows, make two fancy rows of Cro- 
Knitting, knit 1 row, on the next row make button 
holes, as follows: k. 3, * bind off 3, k. 8 and re- 
peat from *. Eight button holes, in all. On the 
next row cast on 3 stitches opposite those bound 
off. Knit one row then repeat the two fancy rows. 
Knit 8 rows, then 4 rows increasing one stitch at 
the neck end of each row. The last row should 
end at the neck. Fasten off wool. 

Take the stitches of the back from the thread 
on to knitting pin beginning with the stitch at the 
lower edge of back and with the ball of wool left 
there work to the lower edge of the front. Knit 
12 plain rows not forgetting the belt openings, then 
repeat Cro-Knitting band as made on first side. 
Make second side of back and sleeve to match first 
side. After finishing the 15 rows of k. 2, p. 2 rib- 
bing on second sleeve, knit 2 plain rows then re- 
peat the Cro-Knitting band as made on body of 
garment, making four patterns instead of three to 
form the turn back cuff. Make two extra plain 
rows and bind off. 

Pick up the 46 stitches at bottom of first sleeve 
and on them knit second cuff to match first one 
made. 

Take the 98 stitches from thread and on them 
knit the left front, as follows: knit 4 rows, decreas- 
ing by knitting 2 stitches together at the neck end 
of each row, then knit 16 rows plain and bind off 
on wrong side. 

Pick up 52 stitches around neck and knit 4 rows, 
2 fancy Cro-Knitting rows, knit 1 row. Eighth 
row: k. 3, bind off 3, knit to end. On the next row 
cast on the 3 stitches bound off for the button hole. 
Knit 1 row, 2 fancy rows, knit 1 row and bind off. 

Belt : cast on 134 stitches and knit 4 rows, 2 
fancy rows, k. 4 rows, 2 fancy rows, k. 2 rows then 
bind off on wrong side. 

Sew up under arm seams and sleeves. 



31 



CRO-KNITTING 




Star Stitch Scarf in Cro-Knitting 



32 



THE NEW ART 



STAR STITCH SCARF IN CRO-KNITTING. 

Materials Required: 

7 skeins white, Bear Brand Shetland Floss (12 

skeins to the box). 
2 skeins of darkest contrasting color. 
1 skein each, of two next lighter shades. 
1 pair No. 11 amber knitting pins (14 in. long). 
1 amber crochet hook No. 11, same length. 

The entire scarf is made of two threads of Shet- 
land Floss. Wind the balls separately. 

Using two threads of white cast on 187 stitches, 
loosely, for the length of scarf which should be 
about two yards. Knit 2 rows: then drop one 
thread of white and fasten on a thread of the 
lightest shade of Floss and knit 2 rows. Make 
two rows of next shade and 2 rows of the darkest 
shade always carrying one thread of white wool. 
For the center of stripe make 2 rows of two 
threads of the darkest shade. Work back revers- 
ing the shades to match first half, finishing stripe 
with 2 rows of all white. The star stitch stripe is 
next to be made. 

First row: use white wool and change to crochet 
hook. Insert hook into first stitch on pin and pull 
a loop through (retaining stitch on knitting pin). 
Ch. 2. skip first chain, pick up a loop in second 
chain from hook, one in the first loop, which is 
then slipped from pin, then a loop in each of the 
next 2 stitches which are slipped off in turn, wool 
over and through 4 loops, ch. 1. There are now 
two stitches on crochet hook. 

For the second star, * draw wool through eye of 
preceding star (the little hole formed by stitch 
just made), through back of last loop of preceding 
star and through each of the next 2 stitches on 
the knitting pin, wool over and through 4. ch. 1. 
Repeat from * to the end of the row. Turn. 

Second row: with knitting pin * pick up a loop 
in eye of first star, knit next stitch and repeat 
from * all along row, ending with knitting the final 
stitch. Be careful not to widen there. There are 
again as many stitches on needle as for the first 
row. 

Third row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 together and re- 
peat from * to the end of the row. 

Fourth row: plain knitting, knit each over as a 
stitch. Make another shaded stripe like first one 



omitting the two rows of all white knitting when 
beginning stripe, but making them at the end of 
stripe. 

Repeat the four rows for star stitch stripe and 
then the first and second rows. Make 2 rows of 
plain knitting all white, then make the shaded 
stripe. When the center of this stripe has been 
made, the scarf is half finished. Make second half 
to match first and bind off loosely. 

Run a thread of wool across each end to draw 
work in shape before knotting on the fringe. 

Cut the wool for fringe in 10 inch lengths and 
knot 4 strands for each tassel. Put a tassel in the 
end of each purl (2 rows) and arrange the colors 
to correspond to the shaded stripes. 



LATTICE WORK SHOPPING BAG. 

Materials required: 

7 balls, Bear Macrame, No. 100. 

1 Wood Lattice pin No. 3. 

1 Star crochet hook, No. 1. 

1 pair 4 inch, embroidery hoops for handles. 

Chain 238: turn, slip ball and end of chain 
through one of the hoops, skip 12 stitches and 
make 1 single crochet stitch (1 s. c.) on the hori- 
zontal thread on the back of next chain, thus 
joining handle to work. Continue making 1 s. c. 
in the horizontal thread of each chain until 50 
chains remain unworked — 176 s. c. in all. Turn. 

Second row: make 1 slip stitch, as follows on 
the back thread of first stitch; insert the hook 
and draw cord through stitch and loop on hook. 
Repeat in each of the next 137 stitches. Turn. 

Third row: 1 s. c. in the back thread of each 
of the 138 stitches of first row, being careful to 
work into the first and last stitches, which are 
inclined to draw down and be overlooked. 

Lattice row (fourth row) : draw up the loop on 
hook and slip it on the lattice pin, draw working 
thread in place. The pin is held under right arm 
firmly. Hold wrong side of work toward you 
and with crochet hook * pull a long loop of cord 
through the double thread of second stitch, slip 
it on pin, draw working thread in place and re- 
peat from * in each stitch of third row. 138 
loops on pin. Slip loops from pin. 



33 



CRO-KNITTING 



Fifth row: turn * draw the fourth, fifth and 
sixth loops, in turn, through the first three loops 
and make i s. c. in each loop as it is drawn 
through; then i s. c. in each of the first, second 
and third loops, thus forming the lattice. Repeat 
from * all along the row. Chain 50, slip ball and 
end of chain through the second hoop. 

Sixth row: skip 12 chains and make 1 s. c. in 
the horizontal thread at the back of each of the 



back thread of each of the two first stitches and 
into them working 1 s. c. Continue in this way- 
all across and fasten off. 

Go back to the 50 chains that were left un- 
worked, draw the end through the hoop, join on 
a thread and skip 12 chains, then make 38 s. c, 
as before, on ch. and join second side of bag as 
first side was joined. Cover each hoop with slip 
stitches. 




next 38 chains, then 1 slip stitch on the back 
thread of each stitch of fifth row. Chain 50, slip 
ball and end of chain through hoop found there 
and turn. Be careful not to twist chains. 

Seventh row: skip 12 chains and make 1 s. c. 
in horizontal thread of each of the other chains; 
then 1 s. c. in the back thread of each stitch of 
fifth row, being careful to work into the first and 
last stitches to keep work even. 

Repeat the fourth, fifth, sixth and seventh rows 
eleven times. Place the two edges of bag part 
together and join them together taking up the 



CHILD'S JACKET WITH LATTICE WORK. 

Materials required: 

2 skeins. Bear Brand Pompadour wool. 
2 skeins, Bear Brand Zephyr Shetland. 
1 bone crochet hook, No. o. 

1 amber knitting pin No. 13, which is about the 
thickness of an ordinary lead pencil. 

Using the Zephyr Shetland and crochet hook, 
chain 69 for the neck of jacket. Work 2 rows 
in crazy stitch, as follows: 

First row: skip 2 chs., make 3 d. c. in the third 
ch., skip 2 chs., 1 s. c. in the next. * Ch. 3, 3 d. c. 
in same stitch with s. c, skip 2 chs., 1 s. c. in 
the next and repeat from *. 22 shells in the row. 

Second row: turn, ch. 3, 3 d. c. in s. c. below, 
* 1 s. c. in top of ch. loop below, ch. 3, 3 d. c. 
in same ch. loop and repeat from * in each loop 
across row, ending with 1 s. c. in the final loop. 
Fasten off wool. 

Third row: turn and use the Pompadour wool. 
1 s. c. in s. c. below, ch. 3 (to count as 1 d. c), 
4 d. c. in same s. c, * s. c. in ch. loop of next 
shell, 5 d. c. in s. c. below and repeat from * 
across the row, ending with 1 s. c. in final ch. 
loop. Fasten off Pompadour. 

Throughout entire jacket the work is turned 
in commencing each row. 

Fourth row (Lattice Work): use two threads 
of Zephyr Shetland and tie them to the Pompa- 
dour wool. * Draw a loop through the back 
thread of first d. c. stitch and ch. 1. Draw up 
the loop on hook and slip it on the knitting pin. 
Draw working thread in place. Repeat from * 
in each d. c. stitch of row omitting the s. c. 
stitches, no loops on pin for this row. Slip loops 
from pin. 

Fifth row: * pull second loop through first 



34 



THE NEW ART 



loop, pull working threads through it, ch. I, slip 
loop on knitting pin, as before. Pull working 
threads through first loop (thus crossing the two 
loops), ch. i, slip loop on pin and repeat from 
* all across row. Slip loops from pin. 

Sixth row: working with a single thread of 
Zephyr Shetland cross loops, as before and in 
each loop make i s. c. 



peat from * eight times; chain 12 for under arm, 
skip nine shells on yoke for shoulder, make 12 
crazy shells across back, ch. 12 for second under 
arm, skip 9 shells and work 9 crazy shells to end 
of row. 

Second row: work as for second row of yoke 
putting 4 extra shells on each under arm chain. 
Make 17 more rows in crazy stitch, then a row 




Seventh row: with Pompadour make 1 s. c. in 
first stitch * ch. 3, 3 d. c. in same stitch, skip 2, 
1 s. c. in next stitch and repeat from * all across. 
36 shells in row. 

Eighth row: use single thread of Zephyr Shet- 
land and work like second row. 

Ninth row: like third row, having 4 d. c. in 
each shell instead of 5 d. c. 

Repeat the fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth 
and ninth rows. There will be 48 shells on the 
final row. This completes the yoke. The wrong 
side of shells worked with Pompadour is the 
right side of yoke. 

The body of jacket is made of a single thread 
of Zephyr Shetland and is worked in crazy stitch. 

First row: 1 s. c. in first s. c, * ch. 3, 3 d. c. 
in same place, 1 s. c. in s. c. after shell and re- 



of Pompadour as ninth row of yoke was made. 
Follow with the three lattice work rows. Fasten 
off. 

Using the Pompadour make a scallop of crazy 
shells all around jacket and neck, working from 
wrong side. 

Sleeve: begin on the under arm chain, make 3 
crazy shells there, 9 shells across the shoulder 
and 2 shells also on the under arm chain. On 
these 14 shells work back and forth for 15 more 
rows. 

Seventeenth row: * make 1 shell as usual then 
a shell catching the s. c. through the ch. loops of 
the next two shells, thus narrowing and repeat 
from *. 9 shells in row. Finish the sleeve to 
match the border on lower part of jacket. Sew 
up and then put on the crazy shell scallop. 



35 



CRO-KNITTING 



AFGHAN WITH CROSS-STITCH 
EMBROIDERY. 

Materials Required: 
13 skeins white, Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. 
1 skein green No. 814, Germantown, 4-fold. 

1 skein pink, Bear Brand Rococo Wool. 
9 skeins "Glossilla Rope" No. 264, green. 

2 skeins "Glossilla Rope" No. 200, pink. 

1 pair amber or bone knitting pins No. 4 (14 

inches long). 
1 amber or bone crochet hook No. 4, same 

length. 

(Note — These directions are based on 16 skeins 
to the box Germantozwi. If the "10 skeins to the 
box" wool is used, the number of skeins required 
will be proportionately less.) 



below, instead of the front perpendicular bar. Knit 
back with knitting pin. Knit 2 more plain rows. 

Fancy row: with crochet hook pick up a loop in 
first stitch and slip off pin, wool over, pick up a 
loop about y 2 inch high in second stitch, wool 
over, pick up another loop in same stitch, slip 
stitch off pin, wool over, skip the first loop above 
afghan stitch row (it will be seen that this row 
formed a row of twisted loops) and pick up a loop 
through the next 4 threads (2 loops) drawing loop 
up about 1 inch, * wool over, draw up another long 
loop through same space, wool over, through 8 
loops on hook, ch. 1, pick up a loop in next stitch, 
slip off pin, wool over, pick up a loop in next 
stitch, wool over, pick up another loop in same 







The Cro-Knitting stripe is made first. Using the 
knitting pins and white wool, cast on 131 stitches 
for the length of the stripe. Knit 2 plain rows. 

Third row: with crochet hook pick up a loop in 
each stitch and work back as in plain afghan stitch 
(see directions for afghan stripe below). 

Fourth row: again pick up a row of loops, tak- 
ing them on the back perpendicular bar of the row 



stitch, slip off, wool over, insert hook in last 
space where long loops were worked into, pick 
up a loop through the next 4 threads and repeat 
from * to the end of row, ending by picking up a 
loop in last stitch. 
Knit 3 plain rows. 

Next row: repeat fancy row, taking up the long 
loop just above the clusters made before. 



36 



THE NEW ART 



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37 



CRO-KNITTING 



K. 4 rows, bind off on wrong side. 

Make another Cro-Knitting stripe in same way. 

Afghan Stitch Stripe: ch. 37, pick up a loop 
through the horizontal bar in the back of second 
and all succeeding chain stitches retaining loops 
on hook. There will be 37 loops on hook. This is 
half of the afghan row. Work back, as follows: 
wool over and through end loop * wool over and 
through 2 stitches and repeat from * to the end. 

Second row: the stitch that remains on hook is 
the first stitch of this row. Pick up a loop through 
the second and succeeding perpendicular bars re- 
taining loops on hook. The end stitch is picked 
up through the last bar and the thread back of it. 
This forms a chain edge which corresponds to the 
first edge. Work back as directed for first row. 

Repeat the second row until the stripe is the 
same length as the Cro-Knitting stripe. It should 
be 7 inches wide. On each of the next six rows, 
narrow, as follows: pick up first loop, as usual, 
then draw it through the loop on hook, pick up 
succeeding loops and keep them on hook, pick up 
a loop through the last two bars together. Final 
row: pick up loop as usual, then draw wool through 
loop on hook. 

Make two more stripes in same manner and 
embroider stripes, as illustrated. 

Sew stripes together. 

Around the afghan make cord edge, as follows: 
fasten two threads of white wool at corner, fasten 
two more threads into third stitch; chain 5 with 
first 2 threads, slip stitch into fifth stitch of edge. 
Withdraw hook, holding second working thread 
over chain just made, chain 5, catch into seventh 
stitch. Continue all around afghan. It is neces- 
sary to twist the working thread as each loop is 
being made. 

Tassels are hung in crocheted loops, as illus- 
trated. These are made while working edge, by 
an extra loop of 10 chain in their respective places. 
Tassels: cut 40 strands each 10 inches long, pull 
through loops and tie double. Put network of but- 
tonhole stitch over head of each tassel with green 
Glossilla. 



ROSE CAP. 
Materials required: 

1 skein, Bear Brand Pompadour Wool. 
1 skein, Bear Brand Saxony, 3 fold. 
1 bone crochet hook, No. o. 

1 amber knitting pin No. 13, which is about the 
thickness of an ordinary lead pencil. 





Using the Pompadour and crochet hook, chain 
3 and join in a ring. Ch. 3, * wool over and pick 
up a loop in the ring, wool over and through all 
3 loops on hook, thus forming 1 short double 
crochet stitch (1 s. d. c), ch. 1 and repeat from 
* 4 times; join to second ch. of the ch. 3 at be- 
ginning of round, with a slip stitch thus form- 
ing six spaces. 

Third round: 1 s. c, 3 d. c, 1 s. c. all in the 
first space, repeat in each space of round, ch. 2, 
turn work and catch around first spoke of second 
round with a slip stitch. 



38 



THE NEW ART 



Fourth round: ch. 4, catch around next spoke 
and repeat all around; join and turn. 

Fifth round: 1 s. c, 6 d. c, 1 s. c. in first space 
and repeat all around. 

Sixth round: change to the Saxony, but do not 
fasten off Pompadour wool. * 1 d. c. on the left 
side of s. c. of preceding round, 1 s. d. c. in each 
of the next six stitches drawing them up so 
that the top of the work is evenly high, 1 d. c. 
on the right side of next s. c. and repeat from * 
all around. 48 stitches in round. Join. 

Seventh round: draw Pompadour wool through 
from the back and pick up a loop in the front 
thread of first stitch, then draw this same loop 
through the loop on hook, thus forming one slip 
stitch. Make 1 slip stitch in front thread of each 
stitch of previous round. Drop Pompadour. 

Eighth round: with Saxony chain 2, to count 
as 1 s. d. c; then make 1 s. d. c. in the back 
thread of each stitch of preceding round, except- 
ing that in the center stitch of each shell there 
are to be 2 s. d. c. 56 s. d. c. in round. Join. 
Repeat the seventh round. 

Tenth round: * 1 s. d. c. in back thread of 
each of the first three stitches, 2 s. d. c. in next 
and repeat from * all around. Join. 

Continue in this way alternating the Pompa- 
dour and Saxony rounds, on each of the Saxony 
rounds having two more stitches between the in- 
creasings until there are nine stitches between. 
Then make one Saxony round without any in- 
creasing. Repeat Pompadour round. On the 
next Saxony row the front of cap is commenced. 
Make 1 s. d. c. in each of the first 88 stitches and 
fasten off Saxony; the remaining stitches are left 
for the neck portion. Repeat the Pompadour 
row once more then commence the lattice pat- 
tern. 

First pattern row: draw up a long loop of 
Pompadour and slip it on the knitting pin, draw 
working thread in place. The pin is held under 
right arm firmly. Hold wrong side of work to- 
ward you and with crochet hook * pull a long 
loop of Pompadour through the double threads 
of second stitch, slip it on pin and draw working 



thread in place. Repeat from * in each stitch of 
row. 88 loops on pin. Slip loops from pin. 

Second row: turn, * draw the second loop 
through the first loop and in it make 1 s. c, then 
make 1 s. c. in first loop, thus forming the lat- 
tice. Repeat from * all along the row. Fasten 
off Pompadour. 

Third row: go back to other end, make a loop 
of Saxony on hook, then make 88 s. d. c. along 
the row and fasten off. Take up both threads 
of the previous row. 

Fourth row: go back, as before and make 1 
slip stitch in the front thread of each stitch 
of third row. Use Pompadour. 

Repeat these four rows, three times; on the 
last repetition of the third row make 36 s. d. c, 
skip one stitch, 4 s. d. c, skip 1, 4 s. d. c, skip 
1, 4 s. d. c, skip 1, 36 s. d. c, thus drawing in 
cap a little around the face. Do not fasten off 
but turn and work across neck portion of cap. 
Put two more stitches in corner, 2 stitches in end 
of lattice row and 1 stitch in each of the other 
rows across front, across stitches left from crown 
* make 1 stitch through the back threads of two 
stitches taken together and repeat from * all 
across crown; then make second front like first 
and fasten off. Make fourth row of slip stitches, 
working across neck also. 

Around entire cap, using the Pompadour wool, 
make a scallop as follows: 1 s. c. in first stitch, 
chain 3, 3 d. c. in same stitch, skip 3 stitches and 
repeat all around. At the corners skip 2 stitches 
only to prevent capping. 

Rose ornament: make five rounds as directed 
for beginning of cap. 

Sixth round: ch. 2, turn and catch around first 
spoke, ch. 6 and catch around next spoke. Re- 
peat all around; join and turn. 

Seventh round: 1 s. c, 8 d. c, 1 s. c. in first 
space and repeat all around. Fasten off. Make 
another ornament in same manner. Trim with 
three rounds of narrow ribbon loops, one loop 
back of each rose petal. Place tiny loop in center 
of each rose and center of crown. 

Line with silk and use ribbon ties. 



39 



CRO-KNITTING 




Child's Angora Set 

Cap, Muft and Stole 



40 



THE NEW ART 



CHILD'S ANGORA SET. 

(Cap, Muff and Stole.) 

Materials required: 

7 (y 2 oz.) balls, Three Rabbit Angora wool, or 

28 small balls. 
2 skeins, Bear Brand Eiderdown. 
1 ball "Glossilla Crochet." 
1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 5. 
1 amber crochet hook, No. 9. 

CAP. Using the Angora cast on 7 stitches and 
knit one row. 

Second row: k. 1, p. 1 in each stitch, 14 stitches, 
in all. Knit loosely. 

Third and every alternate row, knit plain. 

Fourth row: * k. 1, p. 1 in first stitch, k. 1 and 
repeat from *. 

Sixth row: * k. 1, p. 1 in first stitch, k. 2 and 
repeat to end of row. 28 stitches on pin. 

Eighth row : increase in the usual way but 
have 3 stitches between the increasings. 

Continue to increase in this way on every other 
row, always having one more plain stitch between 
the increasings until there are 16 rows, in all. 
63 stitches on pin. 

Seventeenth row: bind off 5 stitches, knit 55, 
bind off the 54th stitch over the 55th then knit 
and bind off the remaining stitches, thus binding 
off 5 stitches on each end. Fasten off Angora. 

Make the next 4 rows with Glossilla. 

First row: knit plain. 

Second row: k. 1, then k. 2 in each stitch all 
across the row, ending with k. 1 in the final 
stitch. 

Third row: knit plain. 

Fourth row: k. 1, then k. 2 together all across 
the row, ending with k. 1 in the final stitch. 

* Using the Angora knit six rows; then 4 rows 
of Glossilla, in pattern, as before. Repeat from * 
then knit 6 rows of Angora. Run the stitches on 
to a thread and sew up the crown seam of cap. 

Pick up all the stitches across the neck of cap 
and on them knit 8 rows, with Angora, followed 
by 7 rows, in pattern, with Glossilla, then bind off 
on the eighth row. 



Pick up the stitches along one end of the neck 
rows, take the stitches from the thread on to the 
pin again, then pick up the stitches along the 
other end of neck rows. Knit 10 rows, with An- 
gora, then finish with the eight rows of Glossilla 
as was done around the neck. 

Fold back the front for a turn over and trim 
with ribbons, as illustrated. 



MUFF. Using the Angora cast on 45 stitches 
and knit 12 rows; then * with Glossilla, knit 4 
rows in pattern as directed for cap, followed by 
12 rows of Angora. Repeat from * three times, 
binding off on the last Angora row. 

Lay the side edges of the work together for the 
top of the muff. Pick up 36 stitches across the 
top, with Angora, taking them through both sides 
at once. Knit 5 rows, then with Glossilla, knit 7 
rows in pattern and bind off on the eighth row. 

Using the Eiderdown and crochet hook, make 
the lining, as follows: make a chain long enough 
to reach around the end and on it work in single 
crochet stitches, very loosely until the lining is the 
■same size as the outside of muff. Sew up. Slip 
inside and sew the two pieces together around the 
ends using Angora wool. 

Trim with ribbon as illustrated. 

STOLE. Using the Angora, cast on 2 stitches 
and knit them. 

Second row: knit two stitches in each stitch. 

Third row: k. 2 in first stitch, k. 1 in each of 
the remaining stitches. Repeat the third row 
until there are 20 stitches on the pin. * Change 
to Glossilla and knit 4 rows in pattern, as directed 
for cap; then 12 rows with Angora. Repeat from 
*; then make 4 rows with Glossilla. On the first 
row of the next Angora stripe knit together the 
two first and two last stitches, then finish the 
12 rows as usual. Follow with Glossilla rows. 
Decrease in same manner on each of the next 
two Angora stripes. There will be 14 stitches on 
pin. On these 14 stitches make 3 more stripes 
of the Angora with Glossilla stripes between; 
then the increasings must begin to make second 
end match the first. On this end the increasing 
is done on the first row of each of the Glossilla 
stripes until there are again 20 stitches on the 
pin. Finish the end by narrowing off to a point. 
Using the Angora only make another piece in 
plain knitting exactly same size and shape for 



41 



CRO-KNITTING 



lining. Overhand the two pieces together using 
a thread of Angora. 

Draw up one edge of stole in the middle part of 
it enough to make it fit well around the neck. 

Finish each end with a tail made, as follows: 
cast on 2 stitches, with Angora; increase one 
stitch when beginning each row until there are 18 
stitches on the pin. Knit n rows of 18 stitches 
each and bind off. Place a little soft cotton in- 
side and sew up. 



Trim with 
stole. 



ribbon and place ribbon ties on 



STAR STITCH STOCKINGS. 
Materials Required: 
skein white, Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold. 
skein contrasting color Saxony, 3-fold, or 
skein Bear Brand Pompadour wool. 
pair Bear Brand nickeled knitting pins, No. 12. 
bone crochet hook, No. o. 




Using the white wool cast on 48 stitches and 
knit one row. 

Second row: k. I, increase (by picking up the 
wool between 2 stitches and knitting it), k. 22, in- 
crease, k. 2, increase, k. 22, increase, k. 1. 



Knit every other row plain. 

Fourth row: k. 2. increase, k. 22,. increase, k. 1, 
increase, k. 2 for center and reverse directions. 

Sixth row: knit 1, increase, k. 27, increase, k. 2, 
and reverse. 

Eighth row: k. 2, increase, k. 27, increase, k. 1, 
increase, k. 2 and reverse. 

On the ninth row increase one stitch when be- 
ginning row and then knit plain. 

Tenth and eleventh rows: use crochet hook and 
contrasting wool and work as directed for star 
stitch. (See page 33). The contrasting wool is 
used for the star stitch only. 

Knit four rows then repeat the star stitch rows. 
On the eighteenth row knit the two first stitches 
together, then plain to the end of row. Knit one 
plain row. 

Twentieth row: k. 25, k. 2 together nine times, 
k. 25. 

On the next row the instep tab is commenced. 

Twenty-first row: k. 26, k. 2 tog., k. 4, k. 2 tog., 
turn. 

Twenty-second row: slip 1, k. 5, k. 2 tog., turn. 

Twenty-third row: slip 1, k. 6, k. 2 tog., turn. 

Repeat the 23d row until 40 stitches, in all, re- 
main on the needles, then turn and knit to the end 
of needle and make an extra stitch there for the 
star stitch row. 

* Make 2 star stitch rows, then knit 3 plain rows, 
follow by one plain row knitting 2 stitches in first 
and last stitches of row. Repeat from * until 
there are six star stitch stripes, then commence the 
knee portion. Knit one plain row then * turn and 
knit until two stitches remain unworked. Repeat from 
* holding the unworked stitches on pin until 3 
stitches remain, turn and knit these stitches and 
the stitches held on the pin on that side. Turn 
and knit back on row and then on the stitches held 
on other side. Knit 10 plain rows. The ribbon 
holes are next to be made. Knit 1, * over, k. 2 
tog. and repeat from * ending row with k. 1. Knit 
10 more plain rows, 2 star stitch rows, 4 plain 
rows, 2 star stitch rows, 6 plain rows and bind off. 

Sew up leg and foot seams and trim with ribbon. 



42 



THE NEW ART 



LATTICE-WORK AFGHAN. 

Materials Required: 
4 skeins. Bear Brand Eidersil. 
9 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 8-fold, 
i Lattice pin, No. 4. 
1 amber crochet hook, No. 9. 

(Note — These directions are based on 16 skeins 
to the box Germantown. If the iC io skeins to the 
box" zvool is used, the number of skeins required 
will be proportionately less.) 

Using the Germantown and crochet hook chain 
101 loosely; turn, skip 1 chain and make 1 single 



Broad Lattice row: draw up a long loop of 
Eidersil and slip it on the pin, then wrap the same 
loop a second time around pin, draw working 
thread in place. The pin is held under right arm 
firmly. Hold wrong side of work toward you and 
with crochet hook * pull a long loop of wool 
through the double threads of second stitch, slip 
it on pin and wrap the second time, as before, draw 
working thread in place and repeat from * in each 
stitch of row. 100 loops (200 wraps) on pin. Join 
the Germantown and fasten off Eidersil. Slip 
loops from pin. There will be 100 long loops in 
which to work the fifth row. 




crochet stitch (1 s. c), in each chain to the end. 
The work should measure thirty inches, for the 
length of afghan. If a longer article is desired 
the row should contain a multiple of 4 stitches. 

Second row: turn and make 1 slip stitch, as fol- 
lows, on the back thread of each stitch of preced- 
ing row: insert the hook and draw wool through 
stitch and the loop on hook. 

Third row: turn, 1 s. c. in the back thread of 
each of the s. c. stitches of first row, being careful 
to work into first stitch which is inclined to draw 
down and be overlooked. Through the last stitch 
draw the Eidersil and fasten off Germantown. 



Fifth row: turn, * draw the third loop through 
the two first loops and in it make 1 s. c, draw 
fourth loop through and in it make 1 s. c, then 
make 1 s. c. in each of the first and second loops, 
thus forming the lattice. Repeat from * all along 
row. Turn. Repeat the second and third rows, 
for the latter taking up the back thread of stitches 
of fifth row. Draw Eidersil through and fasten 
off Germantown. 

Eighth row: like fourth excepting that loops 
are slipped on pin and are not wrapped the second 
time. 100 loops. 

Ninth row: turn, * draw second loop through 



43 



CRO- KNIT TING 



first and in it make I s. c. then make I s. c. in 
first loop and repeat from * all across row. 

Repeat the eighth and ninth rows twice more. 
These last 12 rows constitute one pattern. 

Repeat from the beginning of the second row 
until there are six broad lattice rows: then repeat 
second, third and again the second row and fasten 
off. The afghan should now be 25 inches wide. 
The sides have no finish. 

Across each end work, as follows: with Ger- 
mantown make * 3 s. c. in the heavy band, ch. 3, 
3 s. c. in next band — ch. 2, 1 s. c. in next band 
and repeat from — , ch. 2 and repeat from * all 
along. Turn. Repeat second, third and again 
second rows as given for afghan. 

Fifth border row: with Germantown make 1 s. c. 
in end stitch, * skip 4. 5 d. c. in next, skip 4, 1 
s. c. and repeat from * making 9 scallops across 
end. 

Sixth row: with Eidersil, * 1 s. c. in first s. c, 
ch. 2, 1 d. c. around the post of first d. c. of 
scallop, 1 s. c. in second d. c, ch. 2, 1 d. c. around 
center d. c, 1 s. c. .in fourth d. c, ch. 2, 1 d. c. 
around last d. c. and repeat from * all across. 



DUTCH HOOD IN CRO-KNITTING. 

Materials Required: 

3 skeins Bear Brand Rococo yarn, or 2 skeins 

Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. 
1 pair amber knitting pins No. 5 (10 inches long) 
1 amber crochet hook No. 5, same length. 

(Note — These directions are based on 16 skeins 
to the box Germantoivn. If the "10 skeins to the 
box" wool is used, the number of skeins required 
zmll be proportionately less.) 

Begin at the center of the crown by casting on 
7 stitches. 

First row: knit plain. 

Second row: knit 1, but do not slip it from the 
needle, knit a second stitch on the back thread of 
same stitch, after which slip stitch from needle 
thus knitting 2 stitches in 1 stitch. Do this on 
each stitch — 14 stitches on pin. 

Third row: knit plain. 

Fourth row: k. 2 in first stitch, k. 1 and repeat 
alternately throughout the row — 21 stitches on 
pin. 



Fifth row: knit plain. 

Sixth row: k. 2 in first stitch, k. 2 and repeat 
throughout the row — 28 stitches on pin. 

Seventh row: knit plain. 

Eighth row: increase in the usual way, but have 
3 stitches between the increasings — 35 stitches on 
the pin. 

Increase in this way on every second row until 
there are 10 stitches between the increasings, when 
there will be 84 stitches on the pin. Knit back. 




First row of front: knit and bind 5, then knit to 
other end. Repeat first row. 74 stitches will re- 
main. 

Third row: with crochet hook, wool over and 
pick up a loop in first stitch, wool over and 
through 2, slip stitch from knitting pin, thus mak- 
ing 1 double in the first stitch. * Wool over and 
take up a loop through the next 2 stitches together, 
wool over and through 2, wool over and make 
another double taking it through the back of the 
same 2 stitches, then slip these stitches from pin. 



44 



THE NEW ART 



Repeat from * all across row, ending with I double 
in last stitch. 

Fourth row: with knitting pin, knit I, * over, 
knit 2 together and repeat from *: knit last stitch. 

Fifth row: knit I, * knit I, knit the back oi next 
stitch and repeat from *, knit I. Make three rows 
of plain garter stitch. On these rows, for the 
first stitch, insert the pin, as if to purl, slip stitch 
and throw wool around the point of pin, then knit 
as usual. 

These last six rows constitute one pattern. 
Make 3 more patterns and fasten off wool carefully. 
Run the stitches on to a thread and sew up crown. 

Pick up 50 stitches across the neck of the hood — 
19 across each front — 12 across crown. Knit one 
row. as follows: k. 19, k. 2 together six times, k. 19. 

Third row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 tog. and repeat 
from * ending with k. 1. 

Fourth row: plain knitting, taking the over 
thread as one stitch. 

Make 8 more rows of garter stitch, slipping first 
stitch as directed and bind off. 

Pick up 6 stitches along first end of the neck 
rows, take the stitches from the thread on to the 
pin again and pick up 6 stitches along the other 
end of the neck rows. 

First row: slip 1, k. 29, * k. 2 tog., k. 4 and re- 
peat from * until 30 stitches remain, knit 30. 

Make eleven rows of garter stitch, then repeat 
the first four rows of the Cro-Knitting pattern. 
Make 5 rows of k. 2., p. 2 ribbing and bind off. 

Fold back the front for a turnover and trim 
hood with ribbons. 

DAISY AFGHAN. 
Materials required: 

1 box Cream White Bear Brand Germantown, 
8-fold. 

1 box Pink or Blue Germantown, 8-fold. 

2 skeins White Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. 

2 skeins 4-fold Germantown in same color as the 

8-fold. 

3 skeins Glossilla Rope, Yellow, No. 515. 

1 amber crochet hook, No. 5, 10 inches long. 

(Note — These directions are based on 16 skeins 
tc the box Germantown. If the "10 skeins to the 
box" wool is used, the number of skeins required 
will be proportionately less.) 

Each block is made separately and should be 
about 6 inches square. Using the white 8-fold 
Germantown, chain 30 and make two rows in 
plain afghan stitch. (See Afghan Stitch Stripe, 
page 36.) 



Third row pick up the loops and work back on 
them, as usual, for 15 loops, then chain 5 and 
draw through loop (to form a popcorn) and 
work off the remaining 14 loops. These chain 
stitches should be pulled to the front of work. 

Fourth and every alternate row is plain afghan 
stitch. 

Fifth row: pick up all loops, then work off 11 
loops, 1 popcorn, 1 loop plain, 1 popcorn, 4 plain 
loops, 1 popcorn, 1 plain loop, 1 popcorn, 10 
plain loops. This makes two popcorns on each 




side of the four center loops with 1 plain loop 
between the two popcorns on each side. This 
one loop is always worked between the popcorns 
and no further mention will be made of it. 

Seventh row: 2 popcorns on each side of the 
ic center loops. 

Ninth row: 2 popcorns on each side of the 16 
center loops. 

Eleventh row: 2 popcorns on each side of the 
20 center loops. This is the middle row of the 
block. 

Hereafter the number of loops in the center of 
row is decreased as they were increased, always 
having one plain afghan stitch row between the 
fancy rows until the row having one popcorn in 



45 



CRO- KNITTING 



the center has been made. Make 2 plain rows to 
match beginning of block, then work off as fol- 
lows: pick up first perpendicular thread, as usual, 
drawing the wool also through the loop on hook. 
Continue to work in this way in each perpendic- 
ular thread to the end of the row and fasten off. 
Make 15 white blocks,, in all, and 15 blocks of the 
selected color. Join the blocks with single cro- 
chet stitches, working on the wrong side. Alter- 
nate colors in both width and length, the afghan 
being six blocks long and five blocks wide. 

BORDER: using the cream white wool, make 
a round of double crochet stitches, putting 1 d. c. 
in each stitch, with extra stitches at the corners 
to prevent capping. This round should be per- 
fectly flat. Join at the end of each round. 

Second round: using the colored wool, make 
* 2 d. c. in first stitch, ch. 1, 2 more d. c. in the 
same stitch, ch. 1, skip 2 stitches of previous 
round and repeat from * if a ruffled border, as 
illustrated, is desired. If less fullness is wanted, 
skip 4 stitches instead of 2. Skip fewer stitches 
at the corners. 

Third round: using white wool, make * 4 d. c. 
in the center of first shell, 1 d. c. between the 
shells and repeat from * all around. 

Fourth round: using the color, make * 1 slip 
stitch, as follows: draw wool through stitch of 
previous round and also through loop on hook. 
Chain 3 and repeat from * in each stitch of third 
round. Fasten off. 

The daisies are embroidered in the loop stitch 
with 4-fold wool, a colored one in the center of 
each white block and a white one in each colored 
block. All the centers are worked in French 
knots with the yellow Glossilla. 

AFGHAN WITH PERSIAN LAMB STRIPES 

Materials required: 
Y$ box Bear Brand Germantown, 8-fold. 

5 skeins, Bear Brand Persian Lamb Wool. 

1 amber crochet hook, No. 9. 

Using the Germantown, chain too and work in 
double star stitch, as follows: skip chain next to 
hook and take up a loop through each of the next 
r, chains, (6 loops on hook). Have the first 3 
loops quite short, the other 3 loops long. Wool 
over hook and through all 6 loops, ch. 1 snugly. 

Second star: take up a loop through eye of 
first star (the little hole formed by the stitch 
just made), another through the back twist of 
last loop of first star, making 3 loops on hook. 
These are held quite short; 3 more loops, pulled 
long, are taken up, the first in the same stitch 



with last loop of first star and 1 loop each in the 
next 2 chs. There are again 6 loops upon the 
hook. Finish as with first star. Repeat second 
star until the length of chs. has been used up, 
then fasten off. The row should contain 48 stars 
and should measure thirty inches in length. 

Second row: fasten wool at the very beginning 
of top of first row, ch. 3, take up a loop each in 




second and third chs. from hook, a fourth loop in 
back of first loop in star below, a loop in eye of 
star below and a sixth loop in back of first loop 
of second star below. Finish as usual. Second 
star, take up second and third loops as in stars 
on the first row and fourth, fifth and sixth loops 
as in star just made, finishing as usual. Work 
across as with second star and again finish off. 

The last loop of final star is taken in back loop 
of final star of first row. Be sure there are as 
many stars as in first row. 

Repeat the second row twice or until the stripe 
measures three and one-half inches in depth. 
Draw Persian Lamb through the very beginning 
of last row and make 1 single crochet stitch 
there. Continue making 1 s. c. in each stitch to 
end of row, chain 1 and turn. Work 4 more rows 
in Persian Lamb, putting 1 s. c. in each stitch of 
preceding row and taking up both threads of 
stitch. The Persian Lamb stripe should be two 
inches deep. 

Change to Germantown and make stripe, as 
before. Continue alternating the Persian Lamb 
and Germantown stripes until there are 5 Ger- 
mantown stripes, in all. 

Border: using the Persian Lamb, work all 



46 



THE NEW ART 



around the afghan in single crochet, widening at 
corners by putting 3 s. c. in each corner on first 
round; putting 2 s. c. in each corner on second 
round. Alternate first and second rounds for the 
depth desired. 

INFANT'S JACKET IN SQUARES. 

Materials required: 
2 skeins, Bear Brand Zephyr Shetland. 
2 skeins, Bear Brand Pompadour. 
1 bone crochet hook, No. 1. 

The entire jacket is made in the ordinary cro- 
cheting. 



Every other row is made like the third row and 
no further mention will be made of it. 

Fourth row: like second row until 6 clusters 
have been made. Make 3 d. c. in the next s. c. 
(thus increasing), make 8 clusters, increase as 
before, 9 clusters, increase, 6 clusters to end. 

Sixth row: use Zephyr Shetland. Make 6 clus- 
ters, increase, 1 cluster, increase again (thus 
commencing first shoulder), 18 clusters across 
back, increase, 1 cluster, increase, 6 clusters. 
Every other row is made of the Zephyr Shetland. 

Eighth row: 6 clusters, increase, 3 clusters, in- 
crease, 9 clusters, increase, 9 clusters, increase, 
3 clusters, increase, 6 clusters. 




The work is begun at the neck with the Pom- 
padour wool. Chain 147, turn, skip I ch., 1 sin- 
gle crochet stitch (1 s. c.) in the next, * ch. 4, 
skip 4 chs., 1 s. c. in the next and repeat from * 
to the end of the row. Fasten off. 

Second row: go back to the beginning of first 
row and using the Zephyr Shetland, make 4 
double crochet stitches (4 d. c.) in each chain 
loop across row drawing up the stitches so they 
are three-eighths of an inch high. Fasten off at 
the end of each row and begin next row at the 
ether end. 

Third row: use Pompadour and make 1 s.c. in 
the first stitch * ch. 4, 1 s. c. in the space be- 
tween clusters and repeat from * all across, end- 
ing with 1 s. c. in the final stitch of previous row. 



Tenth row: 6 clusters, increase, 5 clusters, in- 
crease, 19 clusters, increase, 5 clusters, increase, 

6 clusters. 

Twelfth row: 6 clusters, increase, 7 clusters, 
increase, 10 clusters, increase, 9 clusters, increase, 

7 clusters, increase, 6 clusters. 

Fourteenth row: 6 clusters then fasten off. 
This is the first short row of left front. On it 
work the pattern rows 5 times, 6 rows in all. On 
the second and every d. c. row increase in the 
s. c. preceding the final cluster to shape the arm 
hole. 

The short rows for the back are next to be 
made. 

Skip to the other side of second increasing of 
shoulder, work to first increasing on second 



47 



CRO-KNITTING 



shoulder and fasten off. Work 6 rows in all 
across the back, increasing in the center of every 
second row. 

The right front is made like the left, increasing 
at the beginning of rows instead of at the end. 

First long row below the arms, work with 
Pompadour wool, as usual, across the first front, 
ch. 4, work across back, ch. 4 and across second 
front. On this row repeat the pattern rows until 
there are 8 cluster rows, on these cluster rows 
increasing in the center of back on every other 
cluster row. The last row will be a Pompadour 
row. Do not fasten off, turn, work up the front 
around neck and down second front. Fasten off. 
With the Zephyr Shetland make 4 single crochet 
stitches in each loop around the bottom and 
down the fronts. 

Begin at the neck of left front and with the 
Pompadour make * 1 d. c. in the second s. c. 
below, then 1 d. c. in the first s. c, crossing it 
over first d. c. Repeat from * around the three 
sides of jacket. In the 4 stitches of each corner 
work the 2 crossed d. c. in one stitch, to keep 
the corners full enough for the succeeding rows. 

Second border row: with Zephyr Shetland 
make 1 d. c. in each stitch of previous row, tak- 
ing up both threads of stitch. 

Third row: use Pompadour and make 1 s. c. 
in each stitch, taking up both threads. 

Fourth row: like second. Turn and make 1 
s. c. in first stitch, * ch. 3, 4 d. c. in same stitch, 
skip 3 stitches along edge, 1 s. c. in the next and 
repeat from * around jacket and neck. Join and 
fasten off. 

Sixth row: use Pompadour and work on the 
right side. Make 1 s. c. in the center skipped 
stitch on fourth row, * ch. 3, 1 s. c. in top of ch. 
loop on fifth row, ch. 3, 1 s. c, ch. 3, 1 s. c, 
ch. 3, 1 s. c, all in the same loop, ch. 3, 1 s. c. 
in center of next 3 skipped stitches on fourth 
row, and repeat from * Join and fasten off. 

Sleeve. Make a foundation row of chains and 
s. c. in Pompadour, beginning at one end of the 
yoke and working down and around the arm 
hole to the opposite point of the yoke. This row 
when completed, corresponds to the third row. 

Second sleeve row: work clusters in Zephyr 
Shetland. Continue in pattern without increase, 
until there art- 13 cluster rows, in all. Next 
cluster row make 3 d. c. in each cluster instead 
of 4 d. c. On the next Pompadour row, ch. 3 
instead of 4. -Make a cluster row having 2 d. c. 
in each cluster, followed by a Pompadour row 



having 2 chs. to each loop. The. sleeve should 
be the proper size for the wrist. Sew up. Finish 
with a border like that around the body of 
jacket and fasten off. Make second sleeve like 
first. 

Through the open neck row run a cord chained 
of Zephyr Shetland and finished with tassels of 
the same. 

KEEPING THE ENDS EVEN. 

Few crocheters realize the importance of ex- 
actly following directions for the ends of rows. 
Skipping an occasional stitch seems a small mat- 
ter to many, when that stitch comes at the end 
of the row and an occasional added stitch is de- 
creed to be equally trivial. Yet frequently they 
spoil the work. Many a woman while making 
an afghan, after hours have been spent, finds 
that her work is all crooked, going off at an 
unexpected angle, although she may have fol- 
lowed directions exactly, excepting as to the 
ends. If you want straight edges, learn how the 
ends must be worked and make each row exactly 
as it should be. 

TO STRAIGHTEN KNITTED OR 
CROCHETED FLAT WORK. 

Wring out white cotton cloth in cold water. 
Spread cloth on table, then place article on cloth 
with the right side up, and pin in the desired 
shape. Cover with a clean, dry cloth and let it 
remain until entirely dry. 

TO WASH WOOLEN ARTICLES. 

Have lukewarm water in which some pure 
white soap has been dissolved. Soak the garment 
ten minutes, then squeeze out (not wring), remov- 
ing the stains by squeezing between the hands. 

Rinse through two waters, each of the same 
temperature as the water in which garment was 
soaked. 

Most important is the drying process. If pos- 
sible, lay the garment flat on a sheet where it will 
dry quickly. If a sweater or large garment is to 
be dried, it should first be dropped in the bottom 
of a pillow slip or cheese-cloth bag, the slip 
hung up by the open end and the garment be al- 
lowed to drip until nearly dry. Then spread on a 
sheet to dry, drawing the garment into shape 
from time to time and turning frequently. If it 
must be hung up, hang evenly. 



48 



BEAR BRAND MANUAL 
OF HANDIWORK 



THE recognized authority on the arts of 
knitting and crocheting has nearly two 
hundred pages, full of illustrated in- 
structions. It is a fund of knowledge, as well 
as pleasure, for beginners and experts. 

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and tells how to use them for making many 
beautiful garments, giving explicit directions 
from the first stitch to the last one. 

If you have enjoyed the work as planned in 
this Cro-Knitting book you should certainly 
have the MANUAL which has been compiled 
with equal care. If you are not interested 
now, you will doubtless become so upon seeing 
the many beautiful pictures it contains of 
garments photographed on living models. 

The " Boy's Military Outfit" illustrated is 
one of the 250 new designs described in the 
latest edition. 

Ask your dealer for the Bear Brand Manual 
or send 25 cents in stamps or coin to 

Bear Brand Yarn Manufacturers 

107-113 GRAND STREET dept. x NEW YORK CITY 




